Saturday, May 14, 2011

The locals' guide to Paris

Bloggers from the Spotted by Locals network share tips on the French capital, from a reclaimed cultural centre to the Belleville cafe, once the hang-out of Piaf and ChevalierTour Montparnasse ? best view of ParisSpotted by: Willem VinkMost people, when asked for the best view of Paris, would immediately answer "from the Eiffel Tower" or "from Montmartre". But there is a far better view from the Tour Montparnasse. The building is one of the highest in the city and has devoted its top floor to the breathtaking view it has over the city. The big advantage over the Eiffel tower is that the capacity is much bigger, so you don't have to queue for hours before you can go up. The advantage over Montmartre is that you also have a view of Montmartre. You go up by high speed elevators. On the top floor (56th) you have an interesting exhibition on the history of Paris. You can take in the the view from the inside if the weather is bad, but even better is the large rooftop where you have lots of space. You will notice that Paris has a very strict policy on high rise buildings and that almost all buildings have about the same rooftop level. In fact the Tour Montparnasse, which is a tall and rather dark and dull monolith, is the living example of how things could get if no such limitations were in place ? a warning for all Parisians.? rue du D�part, Montparnasse (+33 (0) 1 45 38 52 56, tourmontparnasse56.com). Adults ?11. Open Apr-Oct: 9.30am-11.30pm daily; Oct-Apr Sun-Thu 9.30am-11.30pm, Fri-Sat 9.30am-11pmPoint �ph�m�re ? cool cultural spaceSpotted by Harriet O'BrienRun by Usines �ph�m�re ? a not-for-profit organisation that converts wastelands into cultural centres for young artists ? the Point �ph�m�re is a cafe, nightclub, exhibition centre and concert venue all rolled into one. Artists' and musicians' studios and workshops are also housed there, making it one of the most innovative cultural projects in Paris today. Simple food and inexpensive drinks are available until late and the canal-side terrace is a great hang-out and a perfectly protected sun-trap. Leaflets and flyers with information on concerts/club nights and exhibitions can be found in bars and on their website.? 200 quai Valmy, Belleville/Nation (+33 (0) 1 40 34 02 48, pointephemere.org). Open 1pm-2am daily (later if there's an event/concert on). Club nights ?10Le Tambour ? all night eating and drinkingSpotted by: Harriet O'BrienThe main thrill of the Tambour is undoubtedly its curious opening hours. Fancy a steak or an onion soup at 4am? The Tambour is probably the place for you. The food is traditional French: various cuts of meat, cheese boards and a good selection of wines. The place fills up with well-heeled post-show/theatre goers, hungry post-bar students and all manner of miscellaneous others. It's always busy and while there is no definite obligation to eat, ordering a plate of cheese will probably land you a table a bit quicker. Characteristic of old bistro culture, you'll be packed on to tiny tables next to strangers, so be prepared for a bit of inter-table banter. They also maintain that dangerous tactic of leaving a huge bottle of wine on your table for you to drink (and pay for) as much as you consume.? 41 rue Montmartre, Louvre/Les Halles (+33 (0) 1 42 33 06 90). Open Tue-Sat 12pm-6am, Sun-Mon 6pm-6am.Butte aux Cailles ? a different ParisSpotted by: Tamara Mesari?Butte aux Cailles is a really lovely part of the city, the 13th arrondissement, southern Paris; the northern limit is boulevard Auguste Blanqui, to the south is rue Tolbiac, rue Barrault to the west and rue du Moulin-des-Pr�s to the east. It has the atmosphere of a tranquil village with a holiday feeling. Just a few centuries ago, this area was covered with farms and windmills with the river Bi�vre running through it. The origin of its name comes from the 16th-century owner, Cailles, while buttes are hills. Today, history is visible through its distinction from its surrounding areas: Haussmann's Paris on one side and high-rises on the other. And the river went into the underground. In the evenings, and on weekends and sunny days, there is a great atmosphere all around. Lively, not stuffy or snobbish at all. Walk around before choosing a bar, especially in the rue Butte aux Cailles. Fine places are the Basque restaurant, Chez Gladines in the rue des Cinq Diamants, and La Folie en T�te, Le Diapason and Sputnik in the rue Buttes aux Cailles. Most bars open until 2am.Aux Folies ? noisy, frenetic and diverseSpotted by Harriet O'BrienOnce a caf�-theatre frequented by Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf (then local residents), Aux Folies embodies perfectly the spirit of the quartier, so cram yourself on to one of the tiny street-facing tables and watch the colour and chaos of local life unfold. The drinks are cheap and the service super-efficient; late afternoon even finds the terrace (a rare sun-trap amid the narrow shaded streets) bathed in somnolent rays. Aux Folies is usually packed at all hours, the clientele is made up of the local bohos, Chinese and north African residents, plus a selection of foreign students and artists too. Very cool, very Parisian. Aux Folies also featured in C�dric Klapisch's 2008 film Paris. Naturally.? 8 rue de Belleville, Belleville/Nation (+33 (0) 1 46 36 65 98). Open Mon-Sat 6am-2am, Sun 7am-1amVintage Desir ? go and look greatSpotted by: Karim FekarLocated in the famous pedestrianised rue des Rosiers, Vintage Desir is the address for secondhand vintage clothes. Once inside this little shop, the prices are reasonable ? from ?10 to ?15 for a shirt or dress, a little bit more for a leather jacket. I recently found a typical Austrian jacket for ?15 - and it's not difficult to negotiate if you buy a few articles.? 32 rue des Rosiers, Marais/Bastille (+33 1 40 27 04 98). Open daily 11am-9pmThese are edited extracts from the Spotted by locals blogParisCity breaksFood and drinkCultural tripsBars and clubsFranceguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2011 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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