For anyone contemplating a holiday with children in the UK , the words ?luxury break? and toddler don?t always go together. But on the Isle of Purbeck, a corner of Dorset often overlooked by visitors who usually speed past on their way to the better known attractions of the south west, there is a treasure trove of things to see and do ? and plenty of well-appointed berths to retreat to after a day devouring the attractions ? and superb regional produce ? on offer. � But first I need to explain to Charlie (aged two and a half) that the Isle isn?t really an island because it is joined by land to the rest of Dorset. And that Purbeck is a little bit special because it is hidden away between Bournemouth and Weymouth, surrounded on three sides by the sea which has helped shape the distinctive cliffs ? famously full of fossils ? which form part of England?s beautiful and historic Jurassic Coast ? England?s first natural World Heritage Site. � He asks if there will be pirates and I have to admit that I?m not sure ? but that there are steam trains, a ruined castle and a crocodile that is more than seventy-five million years old.� He thinks he would quite like all this.� There might - I add slyly ? also be chickens.� He is immediately keen to go.� � We choose to travel to Swanage, the main town and cultural hub of the area, by ferry from Sandbanks, a very wealthy enclave just outside Poole which boasts some of the most expensive houses in Britain . We enjoy peering at these while we wait in the queue (which can be notoriously busy at peak commuter times and during school holidays) which is expertly marshalled by a charming chap with huge sideburns who we decided was the ferry ambassador because of his good humour. � The five minute journey across Poole Harbour ? one of the largest natural harbours in the world ? was over almost before it had begun and soon we were rolling through the open countryside, passing swathes of spring gorse, bursting with bright yellow flowers. � Not having been to Swanage since I stayed in a bunkhouse on school journey more than twenty years ago, I still had a memory of a small town, a serviceable but spartan hostel ? and a seafront dominated by a garish amusement arcade. � How things have changed.� The arcade is still there ? but twenty years on, it seems slightly less obtrusive that it did when I was first visited.� And now the town centre seems to be buzzing ? with lots of inviting cafes and intriguing shops.� � And best of all, there is now a chic hotel with its own treatment room ?� the adults-only Swanage Haven ? as well as our family-friendly boutique Bed and Breakfast, The Castleton, run by Julian Maughan and his wife Maggie ? who wins Charlie?s heart by offering to show him the kitchen and putting out extra grapes in the fruit salad every morning. � Having carefully asked about Charlie at the time of booking, they?d recommended a family room which is a brilliantly arranged for parents who want their children close by but who also hanker after a little privacy. � Our lovely, bright room had a nice view towards the Purbeck hills on one side and another window looking out over the road which runs down to the seafront just five minutes walk away.� � The best bit was that it also had a totally separate sleeping area with a curtain across the doorway so parents can keep an ear ? if not an eye ? on their offspring.� � As the afternoon was still warm we wanted to get out and explore some of the surrounding countryside so we motored along the coast road ? not always open as the surrounding area is sometimes used for shooting practise by the British army - towards Kimmeridge Bay . � The stunning cliff top look-out and car park is actually privately owned and there?s a hefty toll of �5.00 but the views are worth it - the sun glinting off the water and the steep cliffs beyond made a fine site ? although parents need to watch little ones as there is a very big, unfenced drop down to the rocks below.� We spent a magical time up there watching other families, young lovers and walkers who were clearly setting out determined to cover as much as possible of the cliff top path. � And then it was time to head back to Swanage where the famous steam railway runs to the village of Corfe Castle. � Staffed almost entirely by dedicated volunteers, the railway is a fantastic ? and enjoyably car free way to visit one of the most beautiful villages ? and castles - in the country.�� Perched high on a natural motte (a mound which gave the castle, originally built by William the Conqueror a superior position overlooking the valley) it was destroyed by Oliver Crowell to punish the owners who supported the King. � Today the crumbling husk can be seen from miles away and we couldn?t wait to wave our National Trust card ? members have free admission - and slip in to explore the site.� � Luckily Charlie was in the mood for walking ? although his race up the gentle slope to the first bridge looked suspiciously like a full scale charge to me ? so we left his buggy (which would have been a real challenge to cart up and down the steps) at the ticket office and decided not to borrow one of the backpack child carriers on offer (although if he had been smaller or sleepier I might have done). � We stopped at the first arrow slit before racing up to seek out some knights and damsels further up where the tumble down walls make excellent spots for a game of hide and seek.� Some of the steps are quite a challenge for little ones and we took a bit of a tumble but moments later we were back on our feet with a clean scratch (thank goodness for handbag-sized tubes of antiseptic gel) and a determination to track down the dragons? lair. � It turned out that the dragons had gone for a cream tea back in the village so we charged back down the hill only to find ourselves spoilt for choice.� The National Trust?s own tea room also offers teas outside in a lovely little garden with views up to the Castle.� There are also several hotels nearby and the delightful Village Bakery sells homemade sandwiches or soft roles which you could fill yourself with cold meats and local cheese such as Dorset Blue Vinney from Creils, the nearby deli which also has locally produced vegetables and pork and apple sausages which we took home for tea a couple of days later. � We also chose a couple of gifts from the tiny Boilerhouse Gallery just next to the platform where the steam trains appear in a cloud of steam looking like something out of The Railway Children. � The Boilerhouse is a cooperative of regional artists and craftswomen and we were able to talk to Jane the potter and Frances the textile designer who both have studios on the premises (open at weekends although artists may be available outside these hours).� � After a slow train home ? and a chat with Charlie?s new friend, Ticket Inspector Dale Mason (who at 17 has been volunteering on the line for almost 10 years) we arrive back in Swanage and find ourselves spoiled for choice for eating options.� Do I book babysitting and go for a grown up dinner at the smart Ocean Beach with lovely views of the sunset or do we go en famille to the well-regarded pub across the road from The Castleton?� � The next day, having somehow found room for another of Maggie?s delicious breakfasts, we head out to the pretty village of Langton Maltravers where Charlie Newman runs one of the most unusual pubs I?ve ever been in.� You can only park at the pub if you drive a Moto Guzzi motorbike so we left the car in the community car park and toddled down the hill to the pub which has wonderful views from the front garden - as well as a flock of resident chickens. � ?Turn left at the bar? is usually the answer I get when asking for the Ladies loo, but at the Square and Compass it takes us into a tiny museum packed with fossils collected by the Newman family (and others) over many years.� The highlight for my Charlie is the 75 million-year-old crocodile skull which we promptly nickname ?Snappy.?� We spend ages peering into the glass cases before heading back into the sunlight for drinks and to admire the chooks ? including a couple of very fancy black and white black and white ones who squawk around the front of the pub. � It takes a big effort to entice Charlie away but I want to find out more about the local stone carving resurgence taking place at the nearby Burngate Stone carving Centre.� Recently established within sight of an ancient quarry (Purbeck stone was much sought after in the 19th and early 20th centuries) the centre offers classes for adults and children ? including taster sessions for families with young children.� We both wish we?d chosen a day when we could have been more ?hands on? and resolve to come back for more carving (and chickens ? though not at the same time). � Swanage itself is also building on its reputation as a creative centre with many small arts initiatives as well as the regular performances and shows at the Mowlem theatre on the seafront and the Purbeck Arts Club which is tucked away behind the main shopping street.� In addition to the annual Purbeck Art Week ? held each year in May - there are several galleries in the town.� � The Purbeck Gallery is especially child-friendly with owner Jane encouraging Charlie to explore a box of toys while I browse.� � Foodies are not neglected either.� Gourmets will love the Purbeck Deli which stocks lots of local treats such as Dorset-brewed beers, sausages and clotted cream fudge and Beavors Cafe - both great places tostock up on picnic essentials. � And souvenir hunters will find something in West Country Crafts ? an old fashioned gift shop run by a friendly gentleman who makes time to help every customer and then wraps each purchase in pretty paper ? there seem to be so few independent shops now that it was a pleasure to find somewhere like this. � Tearing ourselves away from Purbeck wasn?t easy ? not least because a flat car battery meant we weren?t going anywhere until the resourceful Maggie and her neighbour Mark, the proprietor of the Danesfort hotel next door, came to my rescue with a jump start. � As we sailed away back down the A351 Charlie looked crestfallen.� ?It?s a shame you made the car work again Mummy,? he said.� ?I thought you broke it so we could stay with Maggie for ever.? � � GETTING THERE: The Bournemouth-Swanage Motor Road and Ferry Company (sandbanksferry.co.uk) charges �1.00 for foot passengers and �3.50 per car for a single crossing. � SWT (southwesttrains.co.uk) have a service from London Waterloo to Wareham , the nearest station to Swanage. Return prices start from �16.50 for adults.� If travelling with children over five years old, it is worth buying a Family Railcard for cheaper fares. � Swanage Steam Railway (www.swanagerailway.co.uk) runs regular services between Swanage and Norden / Corfe Castle .� See the website for timetable and fares. Please note there is no parking for private cars at Corfe Castle station.� If planning to travel back to Corfe you must leave your car at the park and ride station at Norden. � � STAYING THERE: � The Castleton Bed and Breakfast (01929 423972� www.thecastleton.co.uk) offers rooms from �55.00.� Family rooms start at �100 (with a small extra charge depending on the number of children staying). � WHAT TO DO THERE: Corfe Castle open daily 10.00 ? 18.00 until end of September (10.00- 17.00 during October. � Admission prices: Adult �6.50, child �3.25, Family tickets available. Visitors arriving by public transport are offered a reduction on production of a valid bus or train ticket. � Fossil Museum at the Square and Compass pub, Worth Maltravers. Admission free.� Open daily during pub opening hours. � Boilerhouse Gallery, Corfe Castle (boilerhouseart.co.uk) � Burngate Centre (burngatestonecentre.co.uk), Langton Maltravers. � Purbeck Art Week (purbeckartweeks.co.uk) runs from 20 May ? 5 June 2011. See the website for diary of special events and concerts � For more ideas see Visit Dorset�
14 May 2011
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