Autumn in the Lake District

Despite the threat of rain, autumn is a fine time for canoeing, climbing and cosying up in a stylish Lake District hotelDriving up the A590 to the south lakes with Maddy, eight, I can't help but be aware that her age has its advantages. "Do you remember when we drove through those floods?" Blank look. "What flood?"Children have fabulous memories, but also a powerful ability to forget. We had actually been in the Lakes when floods hit in November 2009, and driven through water so deep I had to run in front of the car, testing the depth, while Sophie drove, glancing down frequently to check if water was coming under the door. We were a couple of miles from Seathwaite, which was busy setting a British record for rainfall: 316mm in 24 hours.Now, we are coming out of season and I'm wondering if this is wise. Canoeing and rock climbing with an eight-year-old in England's most inclement region? A miserable, cold and wet experience, I'm convinced, is going to douse any infant love of the great outdoors for ever. As for Sophie, she is adamant that she will not climb. "It's an unnatural and dangerous activity for adrenaline junkies only."And the hotel? It's in a beautiful riverside location and has been completely refurbished. But Maddy's idea of what constitutes a decent hotel brooks no compromise ? and invites disappointment: "It should have a swimming pool, and the Guinness Book of Records."Fortunately, the Swan Hotel in Newby Bridge has lavished money in all the right places: within seconds Maddy has located the pool and, after a search of the lounge, the requisite book. They have also done a good job with a smart split-level restaurant with plenty of cosy corners and a decent bar, but that's of no interest to her. Maddy only ever eats pasta when travelling ? plain, boiled spaghetti. Occasionally, when in celebratory mood, she will ask for a teaspoon of olive oil on it. The friendly and cheerful staff in the restaurant oblige. We all go to bed happy, but I am wary of the morrow.If I had expected problems getting Maddy out of bed and into a freezing canoe, I was wrong. We arrive at Coniston on time to meet Jason Slater, our instructor, who has the kind of quietly enthusiastic attitude that defuses any behavioural time bombs. In no time at all, he and Maddy are paddling ahead, discussing the scene. Maddy grills him on the name of his canoe, on why buoys are called buoys, and if the lake is haunted. Jason tells the story of Donald Campbell, whose world water speed record attempt ended here in 1967, when his Bluebird boat somersaulted at over 300mph and crashed into the lake. Some say he haunts the waters, and Maddy, predictably, spots him staring up at her.It's hard to imagine the loud fury of Campbell's Bluebird in this tranquillity. All around us the fells are burnished with golds and reds like an old oriental rug cast over a counter. We land at a patch of sunlight and have lunch."On a good, bright winter's day," says Jason, "there is nowhere better on earth." Few outsiders ever appreciate that, but Jason is on a mission. He takes us to Tilberthwaite Quarry, a couple of miles north of the lake. This little gem is accessed by a narrow gorge-like entrance. It is the perfect climbing venue, being sheltered from any wind and with clean, dry rock. I had always thought of rock climbing as a summer sport, but as we find more and more routes to attempt, I have to admit that Jason is right: canoeing and climbing in winter in the Lakes can be fun. Initially Sophie sits it out, but eventually Jason charms her into a harness and helmet. She starts. She falls off. She gets determined. Maddy and I run up to the top and shout down encouragement. She makes it with great whoops of glee. "Wow ? what an adrenaline rush!"After a couple of hours, though, the cold does begin to creep up and we retreat, this time to the Langdale Hotel, another cosy hideaway, where there is a hot tub, steam room and pool. Maddy asks if we can canoe again tomorrow. Her nascent love of the great outdoors has not only survived undamaged, it appears, but increased.? The Swan Hotel (01539 531681, swanhotel.com) has doubles from �119 B&B. The Langdale Hotel (01539 438014, langdale.co.uk) has doubles from �125. Climbing and canoeing with River Deep Mountain High (01539 528666, riverdeepmountainhigh.co.uk), �39.50 for half a day, �75 full day. Further information from Cumbria Tourism (01539 822222, golakes.co.uk) THREE MORE LAKE DISTRICT ESCAPESA walking holiday LakelandWalking in the Lakes from A to B ? or more specifically from B&B to B&B ? is a wonderful way to see England's most stunning scenery. For those who don't fancy lugging a tent around, Discovery Travel does an eight-night round trip including accommodation, a map and detailed itinerary, with your luggage transported every day by road while you walk over the passes. One stop is at the Woolpack Inn at the foot of the Hardknott Pass in Eskdale, one of the most beautiful and quietest valleys in the national park where some people stay an extra night and do the Woolpack Walk. It's 18 miles from the pub and back including Scafell Pike, Bow Fell and Crinkle Crags. By the time you have completed that lot you'll really appreciate the free pint, pizza from their real pizza oven, and a smart, cosy room room waiting for you at the end. Total walking 69 miles. �560 starting and finishing in Broughton in Furness (01904 632226, discoverytravel.co.uk). The Woolpack Inn (01946 723230, woolpack.co.uk) has doubles from �50 B&B, and during November you can stay three nights for the price of two The Winnowing Barn SatterthwaiteEnjoy four nights for the price of three (�320, sleeps six) at the Winnowing Barn, close to Grizedale Forest and Coniston. Cumbrian Cottages is offering the same deal on all its self-catering properties until 19 December. 01228 599960, cumbrian-cottages.co.ukThe George and Dragon CliftonFor good organic local food, cosy bedrooms and close to Penrith ? a good spot for both fishing fiends and cyclists ? we recommend the George and Dragon, an 18th-century coaching inn. 01768 865381, georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk, doubles from �90 a night B&BLake DistrictShort breaksClimbing holidaysCanoeing and kayakingHotelsUnited KingdomFamily holidaysWater sports holidaysWeekend breaksKevin Rushbyguardian.co.uk © 2011 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. 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