The Authentic Ski Tour: Chico Hot Springs, Day 2

..... Pray, Montana (Ski Press)-Through the windshield I can watch the Absaroka Range coming into view like great blue gods with diamonds and avalanches in their hair. Livingston, Montana is coming up on the right, and Bob Dylan is on the radio. ?Did you ever see the movie Rancho Deluxe, with Sam Waterston and Jeff Bridges?? I ask Jeff. He shakes his head. ?No.? It?s day two of my self-proclaimed ?Authentic Ski Tour,? of Montana?s Yellowstone Country, busting a Big Sky hole through the cookie-cutter clutter of ski experiences so sugared up, starched out, and stiltingly stratified that it?s a wonder anyone can tell their vacations apart anymore. Jeff Carroll got me started with the grassroots elegance of Red Lodge, and now we are heading to Chico Hot Springs, then Yellowstone National Park, Big Sky, Moonlight Basin and Bridger Bowl. ?It was filmed in Livingston,? I said. ?Bridges and Waterston are modern rustlers. And Slim Pickens is sent to catch them. And Jimmy Buffet and his band have a scene in the bar.? Buffet wrote a song called ?Livingston Saturday Night?: ?Pickup's washed and you just got paid. With any luck at all you might even get laid, 'Cause they're pickin' and a-kickin' on a Livingston Saturday Night.? But we?re heading south to Paradise Valley now, closer to those mountains catching clouds, through the endless prairies between the peaks and the great log cabins in open spaces without even a tree to stop the wind and the sun from coming through. ?It?s beautiful.? ?I know.? We?re heading to Chico Hot Springs, a kind of Rocky Mountain Eden where the mountains and plains and bubbling hot waters come together, and the wedding parties, couples and cowboys come for miles. Like a great camphouse-meets-country hotel, it is tucked against the peaks, golden in the light, with the wonderful restaurant inside, those mythic waters, and the Chico Saloon, its legendary bar. At the rooms across from the stables, where the horses are being fed at dusk, a stout man is busy unloading several six-packs of different micro-brews. ?Looks like you?re getting ready for a good time,? I said, wondering if he was booked for a week, or about to host his own beer festival right then and there. He looked me in the eye between moving six packs and said, ?It?s always a good time in Chico.? And walking over to the Chico Dining Room I felt a little warmth of anticipation at the light melting out the windows, and the sense of coming in from the cold. I felt the warmth of the wine, The Prisoner, and the conversation as Chico?s General Manager Colin Kurth Davis took us into the night, through Chico?s history and the restaurant?s menu. ?You have to stay for two nights,? he said. ?One night to eat here in the restaurant, and one night by the pool in the Grill.? Interested and generous, Davis gives off the air of a friendly neighbor hosting an endless pool party and barbecue. And what a pool, and what a menu. For the Dining Room there is even a book, ?A Montana Table,? written by Colin?s wife, Seabring Davis, an accomplished journalist and foodie, detailing the deceptively simple preparation of the restaurant?s ubiquitously delicious fennel breadsticks, rock-cooked Yellowstone Chicken, and Huckleberry Swirl Cheesecake. We sit there for hours. It is a perfect pace. In my mind, I could go there right now. It is Colin who finally breaks the trance. ?Shall we go next door?? I?ve never seen two-stepping that good before. The pedal-steel guitar and stand-up bass of Dirty Shame, and all those pretty country girls heating up the dance floor. The young cowboys come in with their towels tucked under their arms to hit the pool. Drinks are served in cups through the window, into the steaming outdoors. A sun-kissed blonde named Shona shoots me with a potato gun. Rounds of tequila are ordered, and the night suddenly accelerates as the band plays faster numbers. The dance floor fills, and if you look hard enough, you can see the stars start to swirl. Links Chico Hot Springs: www.chicohotsprings.com A Montana Table: www.amazon.com/Montana-Table-Recipes-Springs-Resort/dp/0762725702/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Jimmy Buffet, Livingston Saturday Night: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gzzS0nyMfM

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