Thursday, June 28, 2012

Readers' travel tips: Croatian islands and coast

With nearly 2,000 miles of coastline and 50 inhabited islands, Croatia has plenty to offer lovers of sea and sunshine. Been there readers select their best-loved spotsAdd a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera Winning tip: Stupe island, near KorculaEscape the cruise ship hordes in Korcula town by heading out to peaceful Stupe island. This tiny outcrop in the Adriatic has a small beach, superb snorkelling and a family-run shack serving fresh fish. The kitchen is built into the rock, and wooden tables overlook the dock beneath a shade of reeds. You can reach the island by water taxi from Korcula or, as we did, towed behind a speedboat on an inflatable banana! Just don't forget to ask to be picked up again after sunset. colsholsIstriaVodnjanThis small town just outside Pula is full of medieval winding streets, beautiful churches and stunning architecture. The fascinating church of St Blaise is home to six mummified saints, and the best restaurant in the whole of Istria is the friendly Vodnjanka (+385 52 511435, ul. Istarska 22B) serving authentic Istrian meals, with excellent service.hrobsonLampajinaThere are many little bays and coves in the nature reserve of Lower Kamenjak, but Lampajina is probably the most stunning of its beaches. You'll find laminated white rocks offering natural sun-lounging by the emerald waters of the Adriatic, and a spot where locals cliff-dive from a height of about 10m. The nearby Safari Bar is a classic: the calamari sandwich is worth the wait. kamenjak.hrorange1936Porton Biondi campsiteHere you can set up camp in a fragrant and ancient pine forest overlooking the Adriatic just a short walk from the centre of Rovinj for less than �4 a night per adult. From the waterfront you can hire little motorboats to explore, snorkel, swim and relax. The town itself is old and crumbling and charming and best reached by boat from Venice (returns about ?120pp). So you get to see Venice too! Pick up some Italian cheese, bread and beer: the four-hour ferry ride across the Adriatic, beer in hand in the late afternoon sun, is the perfect way to melt into holiday mode.Ferries: find-croatia.com; campsite: portonbiondi.comalerooni1975Split areaSplitIt's easy to fall in love with this pretty city, set against a stunning mountain backdrop. The centre is built around the striking remains of Diocletian's Palace and contains a warren of stone-paved streets filled with interesting shops. Visitors can take a walk round the coast to the beach or join the evening promenade down the palm-lined harbour. For a great meal try the local's favourite, Sperun (+385 21 346999, ul. Rijecka 3).split.infojaynemoobsGrablje, HvarThough Hvar is known for its posh port and brilliant beaches, those with steel knuckles and a set of wheels can go for a joyride on the narrow, twisted back lanes of the island's old roads. The summit near Grablje reveals heart-stopping panoramic views of sea and mainland. Ancient stone walls mix with patchworks of lavender and olive trees. Back at sea level, stop in tiny Milna for white stone beaches and, in the only, alfresco, cafe, inexpensive fresh fish and delicious omelettes.hvarinfo.com/milnabeanercorriganHvar TownHvar is a fairy tale that has the added bonus of an entirely traffic free centre, frequented only by silent electric delivery carts, ferries and luxury yachts. Once an important port in the Venetian empire, today it is a town of smiling and courteous locals.After an exhausting day of sun-bathing and swimming, wander and admire the stunning architecture, climb the steep hill to the 16th-century fortress above the old city, explore the passageways and stairways or just sit and watch the world go by with a coffee in the beautiful old square overlooking the harbour. End the day at the ancient theatre or a lively disco, or with a walk along the beautifully lit promenades, through the trees by the sea, looking out to the twinkling lights of the stairs and ships anchored in the bay. tzhvar.hr/en pmartiniRestaurant Lungomare, Hvar This gem in the middle of Hvar is a 10-minute walk from the marina and the expensive cruise-passenger-filled restaurants. Enjoy a complimentary starter (ours was delicious fresh anchovies with lemon and Istrian olive oil) and then the best and most reasonably priced seafood in Hvar. Expect the exuberant chef and owner to come personally to your table to make sure you are enjoying your meal. The ceiling decorated with fishing nets and shells and adds to the relaxed yet fun atmosphere. +385 98 361543, ul. Krizna Iuka 9, pinkchampagnehvar.com joyouseDubrovnik areaSobra, Mljet island Sobra, on the island of Mljet, off the Dubrovnik coast, is a village that tourists normally sail past. Here you'll find a private "beach" and a first-class bar/restaurant serving Croatian food and Italian pizzas, run by Nikola. From Sobra catch a ferry or hire a car and head to the national park on the other side of Mljet to explore the beautiful, wild and lush forest. The highlight is the large saltwater lake that cocoons a Benedictine monastery. You can swim across or take the hourly boat.mljettravel.com/sobra.htmljimmigrimbleLokrum islandPick up some picnic supplies and take the 10-minute, hourly boat from Dubrovnik to this beautiful island. Start the day with a trek to the fortress at the highest point of the island, for unbeatable views of Dubrovnik, before taking the coastal path to the monastery. On the way, take one of the rocky paths down to the shore to discover your own private beach ? for a picnic lunch and a few hours of sun-worshipping. Finish the day by watching the sun go down, enjoying live guitar music in the cafe, or, best of all, floating in the beautiful tranquillity of the salt lake.lokrum.hr/en. Boats depart from the old harbour every half an hour in summer, 9am-5pm. Returns 35 kuna (about �4)jesuisbenrobCafe Buza, Dubrovnik A well-hidden hole in the city walls leads to this stunningly located bar on the rocks. Watch the sun set over the Adriatic with a cold beer, while locals plunge into the water from the high rocks next to you. It's an astonishingly beautiful place. cafebuza.com. The address is Crijeviceva 9, but ask for directions or head to the city walls and look for the "Cold drinks this way'" sign beauforttenHotel Villas, Kolopcek Island Easily accessible from Dubrovnik, but a world away from it, Hotel Villas Kolopcek is a fantastic hotel on a brilliantly peaceful and relaxing island that you can walk across in an hour or kayak the whole way around in an afternoon. Blue seas, secluded coves, amazing fish restaurants, friendly and efficient staff at the hotel, and four ferries a day into Dubrovnik for only a few euros, it's the absolute perfect place to unwind. kolopcek.com scubagirl66CavtatCavtat is a beautiful and peaceful port village across the bay from historic if a bit overcrowded Dubrovnik. In fact, the best way to enjoy medieval Dubrovnik is to stay in Cavtat. Everything is cheaper, yet it is the same excellent food, the same excellent wine and the same friendly Croatians. Eat grilled squid, drink Plavac wine (a spicy dark red), have an Istra Bitter aperitivo (like Campari, only better), and stay at the spacious Hotel Croatia on the hill overlooking the village. I've been to many places, but Cavtat is close to paradise. dkaszetaKorcula I recommend taking a flight to Dubrovnik and flying home from Split. Going in that direction you will be able to book your island-hopping ferries in advance and avoid getting up at 5am to queue for tickets on the day if you travel in the opposite direction. In Korcula we stayed with the redoutable Priam in Karbuni, who made us feel part of their family summer ? the canoes were free to use, and the sea clear and enticing. We also went to Mljet, which was more touristy but stunning, and Trogir, which was used for the "Vampires of Venice" Dr Who episode, and is small enough to get to know in three days. alisonjart CroatiaBeach holidaysguardian.co.uk © 2012 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. 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