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Thursday, May 10, 2012
Readers' travel tips: Coastal Spain
Find a deserted beach, hop on a narrow-gauge railway to explore Spain's rugged northern coastline or seek out a quiet fishing village in Lanzarote ? Been there readers offer their tips on the best of the Spanish coastAdd a tip for next week and you could win a digital cameraWINNING TIP: Feve coastal train, northern SpainThis narrow-gauge service runs along the rugged northern coast from Bilbao through Santander and Oviedo to Le�n. It plunges through tunnels and stops at lots of places. It is easy to hop on and off, there's no need to book, you can take your bike and it is cheap ? especially if you are over 60. You can also do the tourist thing and go on the Transcant�brico line, which offers luxury seven-day trips, sleeping aboard the train. feve.es, eltranscantabricogranlujo.com/en maggieocAsturiasArenal De MorisMost of the time this campsite is so peaceful you can hear the sea from a mile away. It's a short walk from the village, which has some of the most wonderful fresh seafood I've ever eaten. Sitting on the top of the cliff looking down at the beach, I'm constantly reminded why I love it here. arenaldemoris.com, from ?15.20 for a tent and two adults KaySmytheBasque countrySan Sebasti�nOn Bah�a de La Concha (Shell Bay) the Comb of the Wind, the jaw-dropping iron sculptures of Eduardo Chillida, cast huge, bold shapes from the water's edge. Harbourside restaurants abound, serving an enticing array of pintxos (Basque tapas) including tasty sardines washed down with sidra. For a truly memorable experience, travel 10 minutes west to Zarautz, to the Karlos Argui�ano (hotelka.es, doubles from �110), a fabulous beach restaurant with rooms. sansebastianturismo.com PWestwellHotel Atalya, Mundaka At the charming Hotel Atalaya in Mundaka, you can open the shutters, step onto your balcony and people-watch over the harbour. If you prefer sand, there's a beach at nearby Lekeitio where happy dogs lift their legs on the "no dogs" sign. Place names are a series of randomly jammed typewriter keys: try saying ? and definitely visiting ? Gaztelugatxe, a tiny island with a narrow winding causeway, twinkling at night with fairy lights. For day trips there's Guernica, immortalised by Picasso, with its Junta headquarters museum where I cricked my neck admiring the stained glass ceilings; and my favourite, the eerie but entrancing painted forest at Oma. +34 946 177 000, atalayahotel.es, doubles from ?108 CornishJayCanary IslandsCaleta de Famara, Lanzarote This fishing village on the north-west coast of the island is everything the touristy south coast isn't. It has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach on Lanzarote, with a stunning backdrop of plunging cliffs. The village itself has just a few small restaurants. Restaurante Sol (restaurantesolfamara.com) doesn't look much from the outside, but the fresh fish is delightful so don't be deceived by its exterior. tinyurl.com/caletade SuziWritesAndaluc�aSanl�car de Barrameda, Cadiz The sleepy seaside town, from where Columbus sailed on his second and fourth voyages, comes to life in the summer. There's horse racing on the sands, and trips across the Guadalquivir river to seek the elusive Iberian lynx in the Coto Do�ana national park. And you can find the most fabulous fish dishes at the quayside restaurants, washing them down with manzanilla. sanlucar-de-barrameda.com WendyAbbCabo de Gata natural park, Almer�a The rugged volcanic rock formations that provide the backdrop to this unspoilt and rural coastal region are reason enough to explore. It's a Unesco biosphere reserve and is dotted with wild beaches and small fishing villages, with simple restaurants untainted by mass tourism. The more adventurous could explore some of the walks or dive sites, though soaking up the park's simple beauty is pleasure enough. degata.com/eng snootygirlCataloniaCam� de Ronda coastal path This route on the Costa Brava, north of Barcelona, stretches from Blanes up to France. Pine trees cling to the cliffs, tiny wild coves lead into still tinier and wilder inlets before opening out into miles of beach. You will never be far from refreshment, whether it's a beachside cafe for a snack, an atmospheric fishing village for lunch (Sa Tuna, Tamariu and Sa Riera) or a historic town (Begur and Pals). en.costabrava.org RRogersEbro Delta natural park This is a secluded peninsula of lagoons, rice fields and beaches, packed with birds ? it's very tranquil, with a wonderful sense of space. Being a delta, the area is flat and perfect for cyclists. Many people visit in spring and autumn for the bird migrations, but there are plenty of resident birds to see in summer and winter too. deltaebro.com/en/the-ebro-delta.htm LianaBay of Roses There's a great five-day coastal walk you can take from Escala to Palau-Saverdera, which passes through Cadaqu�s. Salvador Dal� had a holiday home at nearby Port Lligat, which you can visit, and there are sea-view bars and restaurants to while away the evenings. It's not overrun with tourists and manages to hang on to its quaint "villagey" feel. We stayed at the Dal�-themed Hotel La Residencia (laresidencia.net/lrdc/ang). IrondownsouthCap Creus national parkThis national park has some amazing beaches on its southern side and along its northern coast. There are very few roads but plenty of trails to access these beaches. The masses tend to stay on the beaches around Roses, as you will need to walk for about 30 minutes to get to the first if you come by car. The ones on the north coast are difficult to get to without a boat. en.costabrava.org MASMINGOUTemps de Flors exhibition in spring, Girona This is an exhibition of flowers in several places in the historical centre of Girona. The exhibition consists of decorating patios and rooms with flower arrangements ? some very modern! It takes place every May, in the old Jewish quarter, near the cathedral. gironatempsdeflors.netJosephBanksSant Antoni de Calonge This is a small-size, genuinely Catalan family resort where you can lose track of time. Its long sandy, spotlessly clean beach will delight kids of all ages. When you've had enough of lying on a towel, walk the coastal path between the medieval castle and the nearby town of Palam�s, taking in ever-changing sea views, the beautiful palm-lined promenade where the locals take in the sea breeze and watch the world go by. Stop by a beach shack for a cool beer and pan con tomate (toasted bread rubbed with a fresh tomato), or try one of the many family-run restaurants along the promenade that offer freshly cooked Catalan dishes at affordable prices. Then head for Girona and its medieval Jewish quarter or the amazing Greco-Roman site at Emp�ries, big enough to rival Pompeii. For accommodation, see holiday-rentals.co.uk Cloggs? This article was amended on 8 May ? Ebro Delta natural park was incorrectly listed as being in Valencia. It is in CataloniaSpainShort breaksCity breaksBeach holidaysFamily holidaysCataloniaBasque countryguardian.co.uk © 2012 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds
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