Saturday, October 22, 2011

Snowy adventures for non-skiers

You don't have to tussle with boots and bindings to have a fun winter holiday. Try walking or whale watching, or just cosying up somewhere warm but wonderfulCooking course in the AlpsWhen it comes to traditional French ski resorts, you can't get more authentic than Meg�ve, where farmers still march their cows through the streets and local families fill the bars. But if you're expecting rustic Savoyard fare you'll be sorely disappointed. Despite its small proportions and picturesque looks, Meg�ve is a major gastronomic destination, with more than 90 restaurants, two of them Michelin-starred. Flocons de Sel, where chef Emmanuel Renaut was awarded his second Michelin star in 2006, also runs cookery classes.? At Flocons de Sel (+33 4 5021 4999, floconsdesel.com) two-hour courses cost ?60 or you can spend a whole day in the kitchen with the team for ?120. Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies to Geneva from 12 British airports from �84 return. Trains (tgv-europe.com) run from Geneva to Sallanches, 13km from Meg�ve, with a returns from around ?35; a taxi on to Meg�ve costs ?5. Au Vieux Moulin (hotel-restaurant-megeve.com) has doubles from ?175, room onlyMountaineering in the HighlandsThe Highlands of Scotland are a challenging walking environment even in summer, but winter expeditions are mountaineering adventures, with icy steps, mixed terrain and traverses across steep snow. If you fancy embracing such conditions, you need to learn skills such as ropework, using crampons and ice axes, and building emergency shelters. Mountain Magic is a small guiding company run by mountain leader and instructor Paul Boggis. Two- and five-day winter mountaineering courses in Glen Coe and the Cairngorms include accommodation, food and the first of your winter challenges ? a 7am start.? Mountain Magic (07946 331916, mountainmagic.org.uk) courses cost �175 a day, including equipment and guiding. Accommodation extraWhale watching in IcelandSometimes you just don't know where to look. The small fishing village of Grundarfj�rdur in west Iceland benefits not only from the minimal light pollution and short daylight hours in winter necessary to maximise your chances of seeing the northern lights but it also sees regular visits from killer whales. In February and March the whales venture into the fjord before heading off into Breidafj�rdur bay. For 2012 Discover the World has a four-day trip that will have you staring bug-eyed at the sea by day and at the sky by night. There are also trips to the Snaefellsj�kull glacier, which sits atop a sleeping volcano and was the inspiration for Jules Verne's A Journey to the Centre of the Earth.? A four-night trip with Discover the World (01737 214250, discover-the-world.co.uk) costs from �850pp including flights from Heathrow and full board accommodation Visit Santa in FinlandFinding a Father Christmas trip that's fun for all the family and doesn't invoke images of miserable reindeer in wet car parks can be a challenge. Lapland specialist Transun has a three-night break that may just be the answer. Accommodation is in traditional wooden cabins at Davvi Arctic Lodge in not-very-touristy Karesuanto in Finland, and the trip includes two Santa safaris ? one on husky sleds, the other on snowmobiles, with adults given the option of driving their own. Which should be more than enough adrenaline to enable everyone to cope with meeting Santa in his cabin.? A three-night trip with Transun (01865 265200, transun.co.uk) costs from �859pp, including flights, full board accommodation and activitiesStay in an igloo in SloveniaSlovenia is quietly becoming something of an extreme sports destination, with adventure racers, rock climbers, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts discovering its uncrowded mountains. This year sees something rather more relaxing ? an igloo village at ski resort Kranjska Gora in the Julian Alps. The village has a bar and restaurant and offers overnight stays in romantic two-person igloos, or bigger ones sleeping six. The package includes cocktails, dinner, a snowshoe trip, breakfast and very warm sleeping bags. Rubbing noses is not obligatory. ? One night for two people in a two-person igloo (+386 1 232 2364, eskimska-vas.si) costs ?250, or pay ?89pp for a stay in a six-person igloo. Easyjet (easyjet.com) has flights from Stansted to Ljubljana from �60 Festive treats in GothenburgFor a winter city break you want snow, fairy lights and a warm place to snuggle up in. Gothenburg ticks all those boxes. The compact city on Sweden's west coast has more cosy cafes than should be legal, with locals spending huge amounts of time holed up in corners supping lattes and eating apple cinnamon buns. But the city also has a huge cultural scene with a thriving arts district around Langaatan, not to mention many independent boutiques.The city has five Michelin-starred establishments as well as hundreds of creative and lively restaurants. Try Swedish Taste on St Eriksgatan (+46 31 132780, swedishtaste.se) for an upmarket meal. Christmas celebrations start on 18 November with the opening of the city's festive market, and the illuminations are turned on on 9 December.? Aprikosen B&B (+46 31 414050, aprikosenbab.se) is cute and homely with double rooms from Kr790 (�75) B&B. Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick to Gothenburg from �48 return. See goteborg.com for more informationWinemakers' week in Haute-SavoieIn January the ski resort of Samo�ns celebrates the French love of wine with its annual Semaine Vigneronne. Selected winemakers are invited to share and celebrate their passion through workshops and tasting sessions. The Ferme du Ciel is a five-star 350-year-old barn converted into a hotel by Andy and Su Lyell, who pride themselves on their own rather spectacular wine cellar. Its winemakers' week package includes accommodation, breakfast, six nights of gourmet meals and taster sessions.? Seven-night package at Ferme du Ciel (+33 4 5058 4457, fermeduciel.com) costs �950pp. The festival runs from 15-22 January. Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies from Luton to Geneva from �135 return. A SAT (sat-leman.com) bus from Geneva airport to Samo�ns costs ?43 one way Take the waters in LithuaniaSince the 19th century people have been visiting Druskininkai, on Lithuania's border with Belarus, to take the waters, which are rich in minerals and said to help ease asthma, digestive and cardiovascular ailments and more. A number of spa hotels have popped up recently, offering treatments that will keep you occupied as the snow falls. But if you'd rather be active, the newly opened Snoras indoor snowslope (visitlithuania.net), also in Druskininkai, has three pistes and a snowboarding park.? Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Stansted to Vilnius, 120km from Druskininkai, from �99 return. A taxi from Vilnius costs 300 litas (�75). The Europa Royale Druskininkai spa hotel (+370 313 42221, groupeuropa.com) has doubles from �90Fly into the lights For some people, seeing the lights isn't enough. And for them this winter Kiruna Space Station in Swedish Lapland is offering a new excursion, where you can take a trip on a nine-seater plane up above the cloud cover for a unique unrestricted view of the aurora borealis. You pay extra for the two-hour trip, but if you don't see the lights you get a partial refund. The flight is available as part of a three-night break that includes accommodation at the Icehotel, a moose safari, husky sledging, ice driving and snow mobiling.? Discover the World (01737 214250, discover-the-world.co.uk) has a three- night trip from �1,260pp including return flights from Heathrow and some meals. Aurora borealis flight �415 extraMake a film in the Colorado backcountryAlways fancied yourself as more of a Steven Spielberg than a Franz Klammer? You don't have to be an Olympic skier to enjoy capturing one on film, but knowing how to operate a camera helps. A nine-day course in the Colorado backcountry near Boulder will teach you all the techniques ? from story planning to audio capture and editing ? to create your very own adventure film. Lesson one: get involved. The first night sees you snow camping then taking snowshoe or skiing trips, with further nights in mountain huts.? The next course with Adventure Film School (+1 303 440 8101, adventurefilmschool.com) starts on 8 January 2012 and costs �1,645pp, which includes accommodation, instruction and materials but not flights. British Airways (ba.com) flies to Denver from �460 return. A taxi from Denver to Boulder costs about $110 one wayWinter walking in Switzerland and FranceKeen hikers have more appreciation of natural landscapes than most, but in winter many mountain paths are covered in snow and they're expected to ski or snowshoe instead. But a few resorts keep paths clear just for those shod only in walking boots. Arosa in Switzerland has some good winter walking and this year Val Thorens in France has added a new 5km path, Le Sentier de la Marine, to its three existing routes. Hikers can access it via the Cascades chairlift, one of nine in the resort open to walkers. Access to the new path (tinyurl.com/walkingvalthorens) costs around �7.50 for one ride, or �50 for a six-day pass. Half board doubles at Le Sherpa in Val Thorens (lesherpa.com) cost from �175. Take a train (raileurope.co.uk) from London via Paris to Mo�tiers from �109 return, then a bus (transavoie.com) to Val Thorens for �30 return? For winter walking in Arosa (tinyurl.com/walkingarosa), Hotel Alpina (alpina-arosa.ch) has rooms from CHF 140 (�100) B&B. Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, Luton and Manchester to Zurich from �60 return; return train from Zurich to Arosa (sbb.ch) costs from �70 Winter sportsWinter food and drinkWalking holidaysChristmas and New YearChristmas marketsSusan Greenwoodguardian.co.uk © 2011 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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