The Authentic Ski Tour: Bridger Bowl, Day 5

..... Bozeman, Montana (Ski Press)-We linger over coffee and bacon in the Summit Hotel at the base of Big Sky, hoping that the sun will soften the snow. But there is a cloud growing like a purple crown over Lone Peak, like ink into the early blue, and I imagine the high steeps like vertical white lanes custom frozen for human bowling balls. ?It?s slide for life conditions,? said the patroller at the top of Lone Peak when we walked in to see about signing out for the Snowfields. When Dax Schieffer and Doug Wales and I were the only three skiers on the tram that should have been a clue. For me, it?s just as well.� But Dax is devastated. He isn?t going to get to show off some of Big Sky?s most sensational skiing treasures, especially its adventurous alpine bridge to the expansive terrain of Moonlight Basin, and all morning he keeps glancing back up the hill. ?Sorry we didn?t hit it,? I told Dax. And with Lone Peak separating the sky with its cascading terrain like the flanks of a volcano behind him he said, ?How?d you know that?s what I was thinking about right now?? So that then it was just me and Doug driving to Bozeman, eating vinegar chips and drinking Gatorade, and losing count of all the white crosses by the side of the road. It is gorgeous country, expansive and glacial. With hot Augusts and frozen Januarys and sunsets that are among the most beautiful in the world. ?I?m glad to have lived in the East,? was the refrain that I heard. ?But I knew I would live in the West since I first saw the Rockies as a child.? That light going gold and red through the peaks as we drove into Bozeman at the end stop of my Authentic Ski Tour of Yellowstone Country, from Red Lodge to Chico Hot Springs to Yellowstone to Big Sky and now to Bridger Bowl, as I had the sense that I was finally going to ski the most authentic mountain of them all. I asked Doug, ?Who was it that wrote the story for Rolling Stone?? He said, ?Tim Cahill.? Published in 1985, before he became an outdoor writing legend first at Outside Magazine then with books like ?Jaguars Ripped My Flesh? and ?A Wolverine is Eating My Leg,? Cahill enshrined Bridger?s ?Ridge Hippies? in the article ?Going to Extremes ? Adventures in the Endo Zone.? With Bridger Bowl as the setting, the article introduced extreme skiing to much of America, explaining the passion for hiking past the chairs to ski the same chutes and gullies that in the summer you climbed with harnesses and ropes. And it focused on some of North America?s most soon-to-be famous ski astronauts like Tom Jungst, Scot Schmidt and Doug Coombs. That kind of skiing is the industry standard now, with open gates and steep skiing stars from Vermont to Vail. But in 1985, it was revolutionary. And at Bridger, the hike-to access for the Ridge had already been open for 12 years. Add the fact that Bridger Bowl operates as a non-profit, funded by lift tickets and association membership dues (membership being open to any Montana resident 18 years or older) instead of condo sales, and you?ve got a mountain with 100 percent focus on the ski experience, and nothing else. Or as Wales said, ?All of the net profit goes right back into the hill.? In the past few years that net profit has enabled Bridger to continue to lead the way in opening technical terrain, including the rugged Schlasman?s Lift (which you can?t board without a transceiver). It will also result in a new triple chair ? replacing the Deer Park and Bridger lifts next year. On the day we ski, though, the snow that had been baking in the sun for nearly a week is frozen as hard as a coral reef under a cold bank of clouds. On the steeps I feel as if I am at the top of a great frozen wave, trying not to skitter too quickly to the frozen ocean below. ?I?m pretty sure this is the worst day of the year,? Wales said, pointing to the top of the Bridger Lift where the crew has hoisted the Jolly Roger. ?Maybe the last two years.? ?It?s all a matter of degrees,? he said later, still thinking about it on the chair. ?Whether it?s temperatures or steeps, a couple degrees can make all the difference in the world.? Halfway through the afternoon Wales returned to his office to take another phone call about the history of skiing at Bridger. The same way he?s taken my calls for more than a decade, answering questions about open boundaries, avalanche control and now alpine hydration. And I kept skiing because there were still decent slopes, and the lifts haven?t closed. There were still people speeding down the steeps, even hiking the Ridge, and calling out to each other from the chair as if even a day like that there were still nothing better in the world to do. I laughed at the bumper stickers behind the bar at Jimmy B?s Bar and Grill that say, ?Did you move here to be in a hurry?? and, ?Custer was an out-of-stater, too.? At the Montana Ale Works we had bison patty melts and I heard a favorite song by Son Volt that I had never heard sung live before. In the morning it was snowing and I thought, ?what if I stayed for a few days more?? Links Bridger Bowl: www.bridgerbowl.com Montana Ale Works: www.montanaaleworks.com Good Lodging: www.cmoninn.com/midwest-hotel-locations/bozeman/ Special thanks to: Doug, Jeff, Robin, Dax and Colin.

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