Luxury camping in Lanzarote

An off-grid luxury yurt in Lanzarote proves there's nothing grotty about this Canary Island, with its golden beaches, dramatic volcanic landscapes and fantastic foodI had assured friends that staying in a yurt in Lanzarote would be a treat, not a chore. But even I didn't realise just how luxurious the Eco Yurt Royale would be, nor how beautiful the island. I got a hint when my boyfriend and I were greeted at the airport with a chilled bottle of cava and taken on a chauffeur-driven tour through the mountains at sunset. And another when we arrived at the finca on the edge of Arrieta, a fishing village on the north-east coast, to see our private terrace lit by dozens of twinkling lanterns. Then we were whisked to El Lago in Arrieta (+34 928 848176) for Canarian tapas ? stuffed peppers, grilled octopus, garlicky prawns ? then fish and papas arrugados, the Canaries' addictive wrinkled potatoes, with mojo sauce.Back at the finca, we sat amid tea lights in the raised bamboo gazebo that would become our favourite spot, sipped white wine and listened to waves crashing on the beach. Our yurt was at one end of its own walled plot. On one side was a marble-floored wet room and toilet, a shaded daybed and the gazebo. On the other side was a covered outdoor kitchen with granite-topped breakfast bar and a covered lounge area, for rare rainy days or, more likely, a break from the sun: Lanzarote is sunny all year round. In February we lolled on sun loungers while freezing fog settle over England; in October, the average is 26C, falling to a still-pleasant 24C in November.The yurt itself was a vast circular space split into sleeping areas: a wooden frame made from criss-crossed poles with a domed ceiling covered by fabric skins and a skylight. The walls were scarlet, the floor tiled and inset with star-shaped lights, the furniture antique, the bed king-size and sumptuous.This was the most palatial of several yurts on the finca. But if sleeping under canvas doesn't appeal ? however far removed it is from a two-man from Millets ? a couple of stone-built properties have just opened, including a restored watermill four-poster bed. The owners' house is on site, and their four children and various pets add a delightful Darling Buds of May feel, tempering the stylish side and helping guests feel at home.Breakfasts were special: we were encouraged to rummage in the hen boxes for just-laid eggs, which were scrambled for us and served with coffee. Self-caterers can order a box of local fruit and vegetables, cheese, honey and corn bread. I began to fantasise about staying on our plot all holiday, emerging occasionally for a dip in the small communal pool, or to stroll to the beach, tapas bar and village.But guests in the luxury yurt also have use of a hybrid car. (The environment is taken seriously here: the retreat is off-grid, powered by wind turbines and solar panels.) We were duty-bound to explore. It is unfair that Lanzarote retains its "grotty" image. The landscape is a kaleidoscope of colours, albeit from a restricted palette: white houses, black volcanic rock, green cacti, golden beaches, sparkling sapphire seas.The main sights are linked to C�sar Manrique, the celebrated 1960s artist who prevented mass development marring his beloved island and made a virtue of its geographical quirks. The lower level of his house ? now a gallery ? is made from huge air bubbles left by flowing lava (+34 928 843138, cesarmanrique.com, adults ?25, children ?12). Concert halls, restaurants and a swimming pool are situated in volcanic caves; an old quarry is now a cactus garden; a lookout point and former gun emplacement is now a cafe/bar. Every roundabout has a Manrique sculpture or wind chime.He is rivalled only by the volcanic landscape he so loved. The Monta�as de Fuego in the west is the most dramatic example, an other-worldly, scarred landscape that saw cataclysmic eruptions in the 18th century. But Manrique managed to stamp his mark on this too, designing El Diablo there (+34 928 840056), a circular, glass-walled restaurant that uses volcanic heat to cook its fish and steaks.Volcano-fired fare was a novelty, but we preferred our barbecue at the yurt ? simple food in simply stunning surroundings.? One Off Places (oneoffplaces.co.uk) has a week self-catering for up to six at the Eco Yurt Royale from ?1,400. Other yurts cost from ?65 a night, see lanzaroteretreats.com. Jet2.com (0871 226 1737, jet2.com) flies to Lanzarote from Leeds Bradford, Manchester, East Midlands and Newcastle from �80 returnCanary IslandsSpainCampingFood and drinkShort breaksFamily holidaysRachel Dixonguardian.co.uk © 2011 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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