Bloggers from the Spotted by Locals network share tips on the Spanish capital and its Catalan rival - from one of Ferran Adri�'s favourite bodegas to a restaurant dedicated to Javier BardemBARCELONAJai-CaSpotted by Yolanda MolineroThe crowded tapas bar Jai-Ca offers an authentic Barceloneta experience: tapas, Bar�a player pictures hanging on the walls, noise and dirt on the floor. But don't let this scare you off, because this is the essence of all the best and more authentic bars. Just have a quick look at the display of tapas: shrimps, navajas, croquetas, calamares, pimientos del padr�n? you name it, they have it. My favourite is the tigre - pieces of mussel with sauce fried in the shell with bread crumbs. Just delicious! And the best thing about this place is that you are always pleasantly surprised when they bring you the bill!? Ginebra, 13, Barceloneta, +34 (0)933 195002. Open daily 12pm-3amGelonchSpotted by Bill SinclairThis is something special - somewhere to visit maybe three or four times a year. Exquisite food prepared by Robert Gelonch, one of the most inventive chefs currently trading in the city, coupled with a strong wine list. Though the entrance colours and typography suggest a kind of 1970s retro vibe (and hints of Clockwork Orange), the very contemporary tastes you'll encounter when dining here will disabuse you of the notion that Gelonch is some kind of throwback. You have a choice ? a lunchtime men� del d�a for just ?19, or an evening special nine-course tasting men� for ?52.50. You will not be disappointed. How could you be with such dishes as frozen apple coconut foam, iced mint, lemon confit, caramelised cream and black olives? Yep, that's right ? black olives in a dessert. There are so many intriguing combinations in each dish ? artichoke stuffed with mushrooms, pig's trotters with prawns ? cookie-sized pizzas ? that every bite is a pleasant surprise. Some claim the food here is the culinary equivalent of a pointillist painting. It's a good analogy. Each component has individual flavour ? but it's the inventive combinations that delight the palate. It may seem expensive but, honestly, when compared with other establishments in the city, (where often the food is mediocre), it's surprisingly good value for a memorable experience. Gelonch will soon, I'm convinced, have an international reputation, so get here ahead of the herd.? Carrer Bail�n, 56, Eixample, +34 (0)932 658298, gelonch.es. Open Tue-Sat 1.30pm-3.30pm & 9pm- 11:30pmQuimet i QuimetSpotted by Bill SinclairSituated on a street between the lively heart of Poble Sec and the busy, wide avenue of Parallel, this small bodega serves exquisitely prepared plates of tapas. It's a busy, bustling little place, with no seats and only two tables ? it's shoulder to shoulder standing-room only, and there's often a small crowd on the street outside. The bodega serves its own label Belgian bottled beers and its own-label cava. The walls are lined from ceiling to floor with bottles of beers, wines and spirits from around the world. But it's the food that makes this bodega very special ? simple but delicious cheeses, cold meats, canned seafood, caviar and vegetable pat�s served on bread or with bread sticks and transparent fruit-flavoured jelly conserves, all lovingly arranged on the plate like an artwork. It is one of Ferran Adri�'s favoured spots for tapas in Barcelona. It's just a few doors up the street from the Rouge lounge bar, so you could make an evening of it: drop by at Quimet i Quimet for a bite then call into Rouge for drinks, music and atmosphere. Be aware that Quimet i Quimet is only open until 4pm on Saturday, and does not open on Sunday.? C/Poeta Cabanyes 25, Poble Sec, +34 (0)934 423142. Open Mon-Fri 12pm-4pm & 7pm-10.30pm, Sat 12pm-4pm. Closed AugustRas Bookshop and GallerySpotted by: Sonja P�hlmannRas is probably one of the most interesting bookshops in town and is owned by the Barcelona-based Actar editorial. Specialising in architecture, design and art, it offers a variety of books and magazines from international publications. Besides being a book store, Ras is also an exclusive gallery exhibiting contemporary art and design, and is one of the gathering points for Barcelona's urban scene, as it offers many books on street art.? Calle Doctor Dou 10, El Raval, +34 (0)934 127199, rasbcn.com. Open Tue-Sat 12pm-8pmLa Pedrera BarcelonaSpotted by Bill SinclairAn exhibition space I visit regularly ? sometimes revisiting the same exhibition three or four times ? is situated in La Pedrera ? the famous apartment building designed by Antoni Gaud�. They have an excellent exhibition programme with talks, debates and activities. Right now, until 26 June, there's an absolutely brilliant exhibition called Eating Art ? From the Still Life to Ferran Adri�, featuring works by Picasso, Dal�, Joseph Beuys, Piero Manzoni, Juan Gris, Sarah Lucas, Richard Hamilton, Ben Nicholson, Zurbur�n, Daniel Spoerri, Dieter Roth and more. Well worth a few visits. Though a tour of the building, and spectacular rooftop, will cost you ?11, entrance to the exhibition space is free. The exhibition programme promotes a good balance of solo retrospectives and shows about movements or moments in art history. The shows, always accompanied with well-written notes, help you reappraise or recontextualise work by artists often overlooked because they didn't quite fit with the prevailing mood or movement of the time. If you can understand Spanish, it's worth doing one of the free guided tours of the current exhibition on Fridays at 6pm.? Passeig de Gr�cia 92, Eixample, +34 (0)902 400973, lapedreraeducacio.org/eng/index.htm. Open daily10am-8pmTram-TramSpotted by: Bill SinclairYou'll find TRAM-TRAM in Sarr�a, an interesting, well-heeled barrio above Diagonal. This family-owned, family-run restaurant is a good spot for small get-togethers or a romantic rendezvous, and a good introduction to contemporary Catalan cuisine. Unlike at many restaurants in the city centre, you will not have to raise your voice - you can actually hear yourself, and your companions, speak while you eat. Isidre Soler, the chef, (who spent time training with Ferran Adri� at El Bulli) takes evident painstaking pride in the preparation and presentation of his exquisite dishes. The food ? original variations on classic dishes such as seafood paella and cochinillo (suckling pig) ? is flavoursome without being rich, and is very, very good. The ?38 fixed price evening menu offers a starter, a first course, a second course, served with bread, and a dessert or cheese plate. Wine is extra. The men� del d�a is just ?29, or you could try the executive men� at only ?19. The wine list offers a selection of 150 excellent unpretentious wines, and ?16 will buy you a very tasty bottle. Service is very good, if a bit formal. Having said that the very knowledgeable maitre'd will help you navigate the menu, and off-menu specials. (An English version of the menu is available.) All in all, excellent value and highly recommended. Why TRAM-TRAM? Well, the Number 12 tram used to stop outside.? Major de Sarri�, 121, above Diagonal, +34 (0)204 8518, tram-tram.com. Open Tue-Sat 1.30pm-3.30pm & 9pm-11.30pmMADRIDTapas y FotosSpotted by Aneta QuraishyThis is a great bar in the heart of Lavapi�s, really close to the popular Calle Argumosa. The owner is an ardent photographer and you'll find some great photos displayed on the walls lining the bar. Apparently, when he bought the bar the wallpaper was so distasteful he just had to do something about it. Luckily he stumbled over some old photos he'd taken and decided to make a more interesting wallpaper creation. Most are in black and white and well worth having a closer look at. The drinks are cheap and although the tapas on offer are few, they are good and home-made. I recommend the chicken (pollo hortelano) and the potatoes (papas arrugas) with the sauces (mojo and mojo picante). Every first Thursday of the month sees the bar hosting poetry readings; every second Thursday short story readings. Both start around 9.30pm but check at the bar as everything is subject to change. Oh and don't worry if you find the place empty ? it fills up quick and there's charm in just chatting to the staff.? Calle Doctor Piga, 7, Lavapi�s & Latina. Open Mon-Fri 7pm-2am, Sat-Sun 1pm-2amBardemcilla ? Eating with Javier BardemSpotted by Nikko HindersteinMy favourite Javier Bardem role is from the 1982 film Jam�n Jam�n, where he plays a garlic-breathed beefcake. If you like garlic, you'll love this restaurant run by his family which pays tribute to Bardem's screen successes by naming the dishes after his various films or roles. You feel like you're in the Bardem living room because the place is decorated with family heirlooms and photos of young Javier. If you forget to make a reservation, you can hang out at the bar, but don't miss out on the food (note, lunch isn't served until 1.30pm and dinner service starts around 9pm). The menu selection covers the whole gamut of Spanish cooking, with lots of fried foods and ham and a few salads. The portions are big, so the dishes are perfect for sharing ? the croquetas "Jam�n Jam�n" are great, as is the morcilla "Mas fea del mundo" (the ugliest blood sausage in the world) and the tortilla "Mar Adentro" ("The Sea Inside" Spanish omelette).? Calle Augusto Figueroa 47, Chueca & Malasa�a, +34 (0)915 214256, labardemcilla.com. Open Mon-Fri 12pm-5pm & 8pm-2am, Sat 8pm-2amLa TabacaleraSpotted by Aneta QuraishyThe Tabacalera is a new space in Madrid. In the eclectic barrio of Lavapi�s, you can visit a huge, self-managed, thriving arts centre. Housed in an old tobacco factory, it is a space reminiscent of old factories in Berlin. There are daily film screenings, exhibitions, courses and performances and all are organised in a quite ad-hoc manner. Swing dance and salsa nights are organised on every second Thursday and newly scheduled swing verm� (vermouth) on occasional Sunday afternoons (starting at noon). Beer costs only ?1 and the place is full of Madrile�os. Initially this place was meant to only be open until March 2011 but has remained thanks to popular demand.? Calle Embajadores, 53, Lavapies & Latina, latabacalera.netFundaci�n Caja Madrid MadridImage by Nikko HindersteinThe Fundaci�n Caja Madrid is a great art space often overlooked in the centre of town. It shows parts of the visiting exhibits from the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum (across from the Prado), but you don't have to pay an entry fee here. I absolutely recommend paying to see the Thyssen collection and their shows (and I love the cafe), but should you find yourself near Sol or the Royal Palace in need of some (more) culture, this is the place. The building itself is beautiful inside and out, and shows usually change every two or three months. If you need to revive yourself after your art break, the Valor Chocolate shop is around the corner and the San Gin�s chocolate shop is not far away, either.? Plaza de San Mart�n 1, Sol, +34 (0)913 792349, fundacioncajamadrid.es. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm.Ermita de San Antonio Spotted by Nikko HindersteinIn comparison with Goya's bizarre dark paintings and prints, the restored luminous fresco ceilings at the Ermita de San Antonio - his final resting place - seem bright and cheerful. But sneaky Goya added a bit of street life ? grungy stone workers, prostitutes, dogs and kids playing to add a little intrigue. Luckily, King Carlos IV approved it when it was completed in 1798, and the chapel has since become known as Goya's masterpiece. His tomb is marked by a marble slab at the altar, while most of your attention is directed upwards to the ceiling via mirrors so you don't hurt your neck. Saint Anthony is considered the go-to saint for marriage set-ups, so on his feast day, June 13, single ladies flock to the Ermita. Next door is a replica of the chapel: it is still used for religious services. If you're hungry, go next door to Casa Mingo.? Paseo de La Florida 2, Moncloa & Arguelles, +34 (0)915 420722. Open Tue-Fri 9.30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm, free admissionSorolla Museum Spotted by Nikko HindersteinYou may not know the artist Joaqu�n Sorolla, but you've probably seen his paintings in a museum or two. He did his thing back in the late 1800s and developed a gentle realistic touch in his paintings of family and friends. Sorolla is one of the many who has fallen under the beautiful spell of the Alhambra in Granada. While constructing his house (which is now the museum), he put in various reminders of the Alhambra, down to designing the garden with a mini version of one of the main fountains. The house itself is set up to display not only his artwork, but works by his friends, and the decor ,which he either designed or painted. Of note is the dining room, which features painted angelic versions of his wife and children floating on clouds. His studio is the central focus of the house, with a high ceiling and light from almost all sides. The museum is a little off the beaten track of Madrid's museums, but it's walking distance from the Fundaci�n L�zaro Galdiano.? General Martinez Campos 37, Castellana, +34 (0)913 101584, museosorolla.mcu.es. Tue-Sat 9.30am-8pm, Sun 10am-3pm. Entry ?3? These are edited extracts from the Spotted by locals blogSpainBarcelonaMadridCity breaksEuropeguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2011 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds
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