A Cotswold hideaway with plenty of olde worlde charm lives up to its new status as Small Hotel of the YearIt won't just be guests indulging in bubbly at the Bay Tree Hotel today. The 21-bedroom, three-star hotel was named Small Hotel of the Year at the Enjoy England Awards for Excellence 2011 in Birmingham.Interested members of the press (such as me) are alerted ahead of awards night and sworn to secrecy, so we can swoop in to review before the winners get booked up (as they inevitably will be) from now until Christmas.Burford is a Cotswold town of almost fairytale appearance. It is a beautiful spring day, daffodils are bobbing in a light breeze, and sunlight bounces off the golden stone of the cottages along Sheep Street. Goodness, reception is busy ? the phone rings constantly. I see what the Enjoy England assessor meant in his report ? the receptionist is going the extra mile with every inquiry.The doubles amid the olde worlde charm of the main hotel being fully booked, I've gone instead for a Superior Garden Room in an outbuilding by the car park ? what we in hotel reviewing circles like to call "the barracks" (usually while pulling a face). This turns out to be no such thing ? if I overlook the teddy bear on the bed (who does like those apart from five-year-olds?), this is a very good room. Fresh, light, with no one to make a noise above it, and French doors to a Juliet balcony.I love the garden view, modern chintz, big bottles of Molton Brown, the fact I have a lined curtain and a blind at the window which looks out on the driveway (though not a single car disturbs). Less keen on thief-proof hangers, though, and annoyed that Wi-Fi isn't free.Back to the main building, parts of which are 16th century, to settle in the cosy confines of the library for tea and shortbread. This could almost be a National Trust stately home ? not because the sofa is so well-worn, but because I can see two little notices asking me not to do things. "Please refrain from putting wood on the fire", "Please do NOT sit on the bench", they say. Nothing award-winning about decorating a hotel with those.A pre-dinner drink in the softly lit bar is accompanied by canap�s while I choose from the nicely balanced menu. Back through the library to the restaurant, in which a sense of occasion accompanies dinner. Tables are well spaced, and service is friendly and helpful. There is sensitivity in seating the solo diners, too (not under everyone else's gaze, but not hidden away either).I could eat a vat of the chilled cucumber soup, which tastes like tzatziki and comes with a red chilli kick. Perfectly seared Hereford beef fillet, a dark, oozing rillette and a creamy stack of dauphinoise potatoes follow (just wish the kale had come minus the cream).My room is in darkness ? that's funny, I'm sure the info said turn-down service. The tray charge for room service is a very reasonable �1.50 (so many hotels take the mickey) so I take the plunge and order breakfast in bed. It comes right on time next day. Good job I packed a nightdress, though ? when I need to answer the door I can't locate a robe.It's just lovely in here this morning. Blackbirds sing in the walled garden. I throw open the French windows and sit, nibbling on locally smoked salmon and tiny fresh croissants, looking out at cherry blossom.sally.shalam@guardian.co.ukHotelsUnited KingdomShort breaksSally Shalamguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2011 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds
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