The Authentic Ski Tour: Yellowstone National Park, Day 3

..... Yellowstone, Wyo. (Ski Press)-We drove out in the morning with the mountains going gold in the light, and the deer and the elk beside the road. They jumped the barbed wire fences so lightly, off into the grasslands and the endless views. And there was a little pasture filled with buffalo, and a herd of bighorn sheep working their way back into the hills. ?You wouldn?t go hungry,? I said. And Jeff said, ?And we?re still 20 minutes from Yellowstone.? It was the third leg of my ?Authentic Ski Tour? of Montana?s Yellowstone Country. After a day skiing the rustically exhilarating slopes of Red Lodge with Jeff Carroll, and an evening at the high-end honky tonk hot springs of Chico, we were heading to the crown jewel of America?s national park system: Yellowstone. Founded in 1872, the first national park in the world, just the mention of it filled my head with scenes of spouting geysers, iced over waterfalls and great herds of bison plowing pathways through the snow. ?I think I?m a Teddy Roosevelt Republican,? I suddenly confessed to Jeff (although it was President Ulysses S. Grant who first set the preservation stage by signing Yellowstone?s special status into law), suddenly getting all misty-eyed about our American wild lands, and the kind of politicians interested in preserving our country?s most spectacular and pristine native soil. ?But that?s something that probably doesn?t exist anymore.? ?Have you seen the Ken Burns documentary on the National Parks?? Jeff asked. ?It?s incredible.? We drove in to Yellowstone through Gardiner, Montana, and had only just paid the park ranger when I snapped a photo of a bull elk 10 yards from the car. Then we caught a snowcoach in to the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, with our guide/driver going on about ?geyser geeks,? wolf packs, calderas, wildlife biologists and grizzly bears, and how her parents had first fallen in love working one summer at Yellowstone. She said, ?That?s why I?ve always kind of thought of this as home.? Only 30 minutes into the drive we began to see herd after herd of bison, trudging in single file to a new grassy field, and creating a little Prehistoric-style traffic jam across the road. We saw bubbling gray mud pots, bleached white tree trunks and new green growth from the forest renewing itself. And everywhere there was the atmospheric mist of the geysers and the hot springs billowing in the cold March air. ?That?s one of the reasons I like winter here the best,? our guide/driver said. ?Because it?s so quiet. And the geysers are so much more dramatic at this time of year.? That equal measure of beauty and breathing planet is stunning to see, with the corresponding splendor of creation and damnation everywhere, of unfettered natural law. It?s why on the way out, when we stopped to take photos of two coyotes tearing apart the carcass of an elk, in my notes I wrote, ?Only heaven could be this wild and gorgeous, and this raw and real.? ?Did she also tell you that the bears might also be waking up right now?? asked Doug Wales. The director of marketing for Bridger Bowl, it was Wales who had invited me to Montana, and who had been the most excited about getting out for a cross-country ski on the Yellowstone snow. It was Wales who set me up to use that old joke, ?I don?t have to outrun the bear. Just you two.? But that would have been hard to do. A talented cross-country skier, Wales made it look easy, kicking and gliding up the snow-covered road as Jeff and I fell further and further out of view. Then again out the long, peaceful streamside trail, to the Lone Star Geyser like a throne of magma in the woods, bathing in the sun and a raven?s caws. ?When does it erupt?? ?Every three hours.? ?Every three hours from when?? ?Exactly.? We decided to ski back to watch Old Faithful instead, betting the safe bet. Which paid off like it always does, blasting hot water straight up in an exclamation arc as painters painted, gawkers gawked and video cameras whirred. ?Look at the coyote,? someone said, and there it was, sniffing the seats and then off into the woods as if it had known the geyser?s regular eruption schedule as well. ?That was cool.? That was nature?s entertainment hour, pulling out all the stops in a single day of sky and scenery and sensation in a place where there is no internet and no TV in the rooms. We sat by the fire instead, letting the feeling grow. In the morning we would see those coyotes eating the carcass, more steam from geysers like Yankee Boy and Old Faithful again, and more elk in the river and a swan. And for dinner, we would all order the buffalo. Next: Big Sky. Links: Yellowstone National Park: http://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellowstone_National_Park

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