Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The best of France ? chosen by our readers

Contributors to Been there have built up a wealth of tips on France. Here are 25 of the best, from the finest hot chocolate and cakes in Paris to a converted hayloft in ProvenceRESTAURANTSLe Nid d'Aigle, GourdonThis is a fantastic restaurant in the ancient village of Gourdon in the Alpes-Maritimes. The village is perched on the edge of a mountain ridge and the restaurant is perched on the edge of the village, giving it possibly the best restaurant view in Europe. The food is what you go for though - it is delicious. The chef is a genius - his marriage of flavours and colours are a delight for the tastebuds and the eyes. There were four of us and we went back three times in 10 days.? Place Victoria, 06620 Gourdon, +33(0)493 775 202, nid-daigle.fr/fr/restaurant.phpTallyULa Zucca Magica, NiceA vegetarian haven on the south coast. It's a quirky place, every corner is filled with pumpkins, fairy lights and newspaper clippings of the larger than life chef Marco. The restaurant is quite small and the tables are close together, so it's full of atmosphere and very sociable. The restaurant only offers a set meal of five courses - you don't see a menu, you just sit back and enjoy the ride! The selection changes daily as the chef creates inventive and tasty dishes from the fresh produce available.? 4 bis, quai Papacino, 06300 Nice, +33(0)4 93 56 25 27, lazuccamagica.comjaynemoobsLa Fontaine, CavaillonA lovely restaurant in a Provencal market town. In two weeks of cycle touring around France we ate a lot of set menus, but the dinner we had here was the best of the lot - four courses for ?22 and every course was sensational. The place also does pizza, fish and pasta, but I think its speciality is local Provencal dishes. The Cavaillon melon and prosciutto was beautiful, and the local lamb shanks were cooked in a slightly spicy sauce until they were so tender I didn't even need a knife to eat them. Friendly service, simple but pretty decor, and tasty house wine meant the evening was pretty much perfect.? 47 Place Castil-Blaze, 84300 Cavaillon, +33 (0)4 90 71 78 01, lafontaine-cavaillon.comShonaMLe Maracana, Al�ria, CorsicaThere is comparatively little written about the east of the island in the guide books, which is a shame as Al�ria is a bit of a find for foodies. L'Etang de Diana is France's foremost spot for the farming of oysters and mussels (they say), and the region is carpeted with vineyards. Our favourite restaurant was Le Maracana on the town's main street. Don't be put off by the roadside setting and plastic chairs. A ?13 menu featured hearty local vegetable soup, succulent pork fillet served with figs and brocciu cheese and mint-stuffed omelette plus a choice of fresh desserts and a carafe of house wine.? Route de la Mer, 20270 Aleria, +33(0)4 95 56 24 84JillGuestLe Vache a Carreaux, AvignonNestled on a side street in the shadow of the Papal Palace, La Vache a Carreaux could justly claim to be one of the finest restaurants in Provence, a region renowned for its cuisine. Simply yet quirkily decorated and with a homely feel added by the extremely friendly and attentive service, La Vache a Carreaux offers a wonderful range of local dishes and a fantastic wine list to accompany it. A truly memorable dining experience, the food is of the highest quality (the succulent salmon was cooked to perfection) and every effort is made to ensure your satisfaction. Its moderate pricing is truly fantastic value for what you get.? 18 Rue Peyrollerie, 84000 Avignon, +33(0) 4 90 80 09 05, vache-carreaux.comjohnsannaeeBob's Juice Bar, ParisBrunch/lunch caf�. Menu offers (among other items) fruit cocktails and smoothies, home-made muffins, salads, massive sandwiches, veggie maki and my favourite - delicious, taste-bud exploding gazpacho. Oh yum. Free coffee if you eat in-house. All is organic, all is vegetarian, all is fun as you banter with the waiters (they love it).? 15 Rue Lucien Sampaix 75010, +33(0)950063618, bobsjuicebar.comkatysaysmeowBARS AND CAFESTearoom Angelina, ParisI'd recommend a visit to Angelina's Tearooms on Rue de Rivoli - an ideal place to take your partner or daughter if you want to impress her with the knowledge that Angelina's is known to have been frequented by Coco Chanel. That reason aside, the cakes are fabulous (like little pieces of art and totally delicious). Their signature dessert, chesnut-based Mont Blonc, is a delight. The coffee is great (cafe creme my personal favourite although I read about their notoriously rich chocolat l'africain) and the beautiful decor makes for a lovely experience. Ladies, don't leave without visiting the bathroom which is as lovely as the rest of the place!? 226 Rue de Rovili, 75001, Paris, +33(0)142808200, groupe-bertrand.com/angelina.phpurbanprincessOliviera cafe and olive oil shop, NiceFantastic little cafe and outlet for quality olive oils, run by a passionate olive oil enthusiast. Daily menu of seasonal dishes, each matched with one of the range of oils. Learn about each appellation, or just enjoy a nice lunch.? 8 Bis rue de Collet, 06300, Vieux Nice, +33(0)493130645, oliviera.comWendyBLa Mosqu�e de ParisA visit to La Mosqu�e is the most relaxing way to spend time in Paris. The mosque itself is very interesting - someone there will eagerly show you around - but the best part is the little cafe. You can sit outside in the garden and sip mint tea or eat sweet pastries in a calm, unhurried atmosphere. There is even a traditional hamman where you can have a Turkish-style bath for a fraction of the price that any of the more indulgent spa hotels would charge to leave you feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the rest of Paris. A serene and peaceful environment where everyone is welcome.? 39, rue Saint-Hilaire 75005, Paris, +33(0) 1 43 31 38 20, la-mosquee.comBenPickingBar du Marche, BiarritzCosy and friendly restaurant in the heart of Biarritz next to Les Halles market. Drinks are very reasonable (a nice bottle of red wine for ?16) and the food is lovely. We had cote de boeuf with frites for two (?39) and were pleasantly surprised with the huge pile of meat presented to us. Thoroughly recommend it.? 8 Rue Halles, 64200 Biarritz, +33(0) 5 59 23 48 96xiphiasCULTUREJean Cocteau Museum, MentonAlthough small, this collection is wonderful to see. Be careful when you go up the steps not to miss the paintings on the walls. The upstairs gallery gives an interesting incite into M Cocteau. Left me feeling quite inspired.? Vieux Port - Tel: +33 (0)4 93 57 72 30, tourisme-menton.fr/Jean-Cocteau-museum.html. Open all year round from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. Closed on Tuesday and holidays. Entrance ?3.travelandhotelsChateau Oiron Modern Art Gallery, Oiron, ProvenceWhen you've had your fill of "historic" Loire Valley chateaux, head to Oiron (near Saumur) for a feast of modern art installations and cabinets of curiosities in a fantastic setting. Each of the rooms in this 16th/17th-century chateau has been given over to an artist - some well known (Hamilton Finlay, Tinguely, Messager) and others less so. Every time I've been there I've had it to myself, and enjoyed the carefully placed squishy chairs, great atmosphere inside and out, as well as the art works.? 10 Rue du Ch�teau, 79100 Oiron, +33(0) 5 49 96 57 42, oiron.fr. Open 1 October to 31 May 10.30am-5pm, 1 June-30 September 10.30am-6pm. Entry ?7helixhelixLe Passe-Muraille sculpture, ParisThis is a sculpture of a man emerging from a wall. It is an hommage to the short story Le Passe-Muraille (The Man Who Could Walk Through Walls), written in 1943 by Marcel Aym�. It tells the story of a perfectly ordinary man, Dutilleul, who, one day at the age of 42, suddenly discovers he "has the remarkable gift of being able to pass through walls with perfect ease." What begins as a novelty that gives him pleasure, ends up pushing Dutilleul toward more sinister pursuits. Aym� was not a native of Paris although many of his novellas are based in and around the Montmartre neighbourhood where this sculpture can be found.? Place Marcel Aym�, 75018, ParisWeedeaneSt Chartier Festival, Le Chatre, IndreIt's 34 years old, in the middle of nowhere, it's a festival of bagpipe makers and it's blooming fantastic! Cheap as chips, where the euro-hippies hang out for some folky fun. Sleep all day in the shade of the chateau, hang out at the evening gig or catch all the wannabes busking. However, it's after dark that this festival comes alive - stay up all night to watch belly dancing, Balkan street bands and who knows what while drinking cheap wine and eating merguez sausage. I've yet to find a British festival which is as much fun for relatively little outlay, even including the journey.? 7 Avenue George Sand, 36400, La Chatre, +33(0)254486060, rencontresdeluthiers.org/en/intro.htm. 14-17 July 2011,JoMaherMus�e de Grenoble, GrenobleOne of several high quality museums in a city that isn't known particularly for art and culture (but probably should be). The Mus�e de Grenoble is one of the best collections of art outside Paris in the whole country, with paintings by Rubems and Cannaletto. The 20th century collections are especially impressive, and it attracts some of France's best touring exhibitions.? 5 Place de Lavalette, 38000 Grenoble, +33(0)4 76 63 44 44, museedegrenoble.fr. Open al year round (except 25 December, 1 January and 1 May) 10am-6.30pm (closed Tuesdays). Entrance ?5johnsannaeeACCOMMODATIONChateau de Reignac, ToursBeautiful chateau hotel in a small village in the Loire Valley that we stayed in on our honeymoon. Not cheap, but the rooms are beautifully refurbished (contemporary take on traditional design and very well done) and the food is exceptional. Doesn't have a hotel feel and hosts very pleasant (felt like we were staying with wealthly friends). Something to consider if you're looking for something quiet and quality. Good value we thought.? 19 rue Louis de Barberin, F - 37310 Reignac sue Indre, +33 (0)2 47 94 14 10, lechateaudereignac.com. Doubles from ?172.20 a night.user101Pichouette et Olives, MarseilleGuesthouse run by a sweet and friendly lady called Catherine. Rooms are colourful, clean and spacious. A delightful breakfast is provided. Catherine will go out of her way to make her home your home.? 11, bld Tellen,13007, Marseille, +33 (0)491543835, pitchounetteetolives.com. From ?60 for a double with breakfastgoshorty82Basses Beaumettes, Saint Auban, ProvenceSelf-catering apartment (a converted hayloft) full of character in the mountains near some of the best paragliding sites in Europe. Run by wonderful hosts Ruth and Ulric Jessop, who do everything they possibly can to ensure you have a fantastic holiday - making sure you are well fed and watered (despite the "self-catering" tag"), providing loads of suggestions of good things to do/eat/see in the area, and keeping you entertained with stories of all their amazing adventures skiing, paragliding, rickshaw racing, and living in France generally.? Impasse des Beaumettes, +33 493 60 42 82, pottyplace.com. ?50 a nightGrouselHotel Montmirail, Gigondas, ProvenceA secluded tranquil haven - almost taking a step back in time, except that the food and furnishings are modern and stylish. The hospitality of the owners is awesome, and the wine cellar is fantastic - a walk-in refrigerated room! Eat from the set menu every night and you will not see the same food twice and you will not leave an empty plate. Yum!? Ch�teau des eaux 84190 Gigondas, +33 (0) 4 90 65 84 01, hotelmontmirail.com. Doubles from ?86 a night .takeachanceACTIVITIESSculpture Trail (Sentier Sculpturel), MayronneMayronne is a hamlet in the Corbieres hills, near Lagrasse. It hosts a stunning free sculpture trail 5km (two hours 30 minutes) long. There are permanent sculptures and an annual exhibition April - September. Sculptures are amusing, puzzling and breathtaking. The walk would be stunning even without the sculptures and it is a magical experience. Very few people know it's there.? Ferme de Carrus, 11220 Mayronnes, +33 (0)4 68 43 12 37, sentiersculpturel.com. Open year roundacornsBain de Saint Thomas, Fontpedrouse, PyreneesThe smell of sulphur assaults the senses long before you turn into the natural amphitheatre where the Bains de Saint Thomas nestle into the snowclad foothills of the Pyrenees. Celebrated as "Les Sources d'eaux chaudes naturelles", these baths provide everything you could wish for and more: a range of pools, water jets, showers and jacuzzis plus a pair of swimming trunks for my husband who had managed to forget his. Stretched out in the warm, softly bubbling water, gazing at the mountains and deep blue sky above, you do not want not want to be anywhere else in the whole world.? 66360 Fontpedrouse, +33(0) 468970313, bains-saint-thomas.fr. Open daily 10am-8.40pm. Entry ?5.50.issybryceReserve Africaine de Sigean, NarbonneLocated between Narbonne and Perpignan, in the heart of French Catalonia, hides this outstanding African Safari Park. The promotional material is naff, and it is approached via an unpromising dusty side road, but once inside the African adventure begins immediately (directly above where we parked our car there were pelicans nesting). The park is split into two sections, the first to explore on foot, where the favourites were elephants, chimpanzees, giraffes, and alligators. Some seen up close, and others through use of telescopes dotted around the park, as the size of some enclosures are vast. The second, and potentially more exciting section is the series of enclosures accessed by car. Rhinos, zebra, bears, and the stars of the show, the lions, can be seen up close and (almost too) personal. Beware of the ostriches! The whole family agreed that this was the best day of the holiday last summer.? Route nationale 9, 11130 Sigean, +33(0) 4 68 48 20 20, reserveafricainesigean.fr. Last admission 6pm (6.30pm from 3 April). Entry: adults ?27, child up to 14 ?21.joelmfNausicaa - Centre National de la Mer, BoulogneA vast aquarium on the northern edge of Boulogne. It offers a broad experience of the world of the oceans, as well as showing hundreds of species of fish and marine mammals in spectacular tanks, against which you can press your nose as sharks or barracuda swim by, alarmingly close. Children, young people and adults with energy and curiosity will enjoy Nausicaa enormously.? Boulevard Sainte Beuve, BP 189, 62203 Boulogne-sur-Mer, +33 (0)3 21 30 98 98, nausicaa.fr. Open 9:30am to 6:30pm. Entry: Adult ?17.40, child up to 12 ?11.20. MaxRegerWild swimming, Galeria, CorsicaThe Fango River runs west out of Corsica's awesome granite mountains, and by late summer doesn't quite reach the sea. A series of "piscines naturelles" are formed as the river creeks in the dry months. Some are deep enough for diving off the sides of the little gorge carved in less tranquil seasons. By the medieval Ponte Vecchiu bridge, the pools are longest and deepest. Here the river is almost at sea level and the water is no colder than the sea, but without the heavy saltiness of the Med. The mountain setting, but with water that doesn't freeze your bones, makes this a classic swim.RobNormanChateau d'If, MarseilleThis is an old fortress/prison set on the island of If, a few kilometres from the main port of Marseille. While the fortress has been on the island since the 16th century, its main claim to fame is as the place of imprisonment of the fictional inmate Edmond Dant�s, the hero of Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Montecristo.? Quai des Belges 13001 Marseille, +33 (0)4 91 59 02 30. Open daily: Jan?March & Oct?Dec 9.30am?5.30pm; April?Sept 9.30am?6.30pm. Entry ?4Fidge? This article was amended on 22 March 2011. The original located Gourdon between Sarlat and Cahors in the Alpes-Maritimes. This has been corrected.FranceHotelsCity breaksParisNiceMarseilleAvignonArtguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2011 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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