Filed under: Europe, ItalyHave you ever fallen in love with a place that doesn't merit a mention in most guidebooks and felt conflicted about the its obscurity? On the one hand, you don't want it to be "discovered," but on the other, the snub feels like a bit of an insult, even for you, the newcomer who just fell for the place. This is how I feel about Gangi, an obscure, remote 12th century hill town tucked away near Sicily's Madonie Mountains.
Gangi is well off the tourism trail, and only 24 people have bothered to "like it" on Facebook. But in my family, it is our Jerusalem, Mecca, and Athens. My grandfather, Carmelo Seminara, was born in the town in 1880 and lived there until emigrating to the U.S. in the early part of the 20th century. My father talked about Gangi so much during my childhood, that by the time I visited Gangi myself for the first time, I felt like I already knew the place.
Gangi's old town hasn't changed much since my grandfather left almost a century ago. You can see the town's pyramid of stone buildings, newer ones on the bottom, older on top from miles away as you approach. The road that leads up into the ancient center is so steep, narrow and intimidating that only those who live in town, have raced the LeMans course before, or who have a death wish should consider driving up to the very top of the town. Want to walk up? Better have a damn good pair of shoes, strong calves and a clean pair of lungs. You'd have to be on crack to even try to read a street map of the place- just keep going up, up, up until you reach the town's heart, the Piazza del Popolo, or collapse in exhaustion trying.
The first time I tried to drive up the center, I made it about half way and then chickened out. Even when you have the road to yourself, a simple trip is harrowing. When a car tries to come at you going in the opposite direction, one party needs to back up and come to some kind of agreement regarding how the situation will proceed. I would pay good money to see someone try to drive an Escalade up into the Piazza.
The modern traveler cannot help but notice what isn't in the old town of Gangi- no restaurants, no internet cafes, art galleries, hotels, wine shops, tourist information offices, souvenir stands, or any other business that caters to those who don't live in the immediate area. What Gangi does have is a tangle of ancient streets and narrow dwellings populated by proud people that all know each other and still buy their bread, milk and veggies from men who drive by in trucks and hawk their wares by broadcasting over makeshift bullhorns.Continue reading Gangi: The Italian hill town the guidebooks forgot to mentionGangi: The Italian hill town the guidebooks forgot to mention originally appeared on Gadling on Thu, 02 Feb 2012 10:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.Permalink | Email this | Comments
No comments:
Post a Comment