Saturday, February 5, 2011
The Authentic Ski Tour: Red Lodge, Day 1
..... Billings, Montana (Ski Press)-They say that what you seek is what you find. So I shouldn?t have been surprised in the Billings airport, the ?gateway to the big sky,? to feel like I had landed in 1975, waiting for my bags in a nostalgic mountain scene of ranchers, miners and skiers, before anyone had heard of timeshares.Maybe it was the cowboys drinking Budweisers at the airport bakery and pastry bar, the guys in the seats on the plane behind me trading Clydesdale dreams and the promise of open land, or the horse statues at the baggage carousel, the stuffed sheep and all the soldiers coming home. But that sense of grassroots wonder started as soon as I heard those two good old boys behind me talking on the plane. ?If I had one of those Clydesdales I?d just keep it like a big old dog. Here puppy, puppy,? one of them said. And the other one agreed, that they were the most beautiful horses, and started to tell a story about how he used to ship bull semen all over the world. But then the plane hit a patch of bad air and the younger one said, ?Right now I?m just imagining that I?m driving down a gravel road.? Jeff Carroll picked me up outside. Tall, blonde and eternally tan, he had been Red Lodge Mountain?s Director of Sales and Marketing for nine months now, having made the move from Tamarack in Idaho. He said he had jumped at the job, and loved the mountain, and loved the opportunity to tell his wife that she was going home. ?She grew up here,? he said, driving to Red Lodge with all the deer beside the road. ?So it?s pretty amazing to raise our family here, too. He said he had a little girl, and another baby on the way. And I told him I remembered Red Lodge from coming up from Jackson Hole to ski Beartooth Pass in the late spring when the road was plowed between high white walls of snow; the red brick parade of buildings down Broadway and all the cowboy hats and Carhartts in the bars. We ate steak at the Carbon County Steakhouse, a perfect New York and Cowboy Coffee Ribeye. And I slept at Pollard?s down the street, the grand red brick hotel with the history of ?Liver? eating Johnston and William Jennings Bryants and even Ernest Hemingway on fishing trips coming through. There was a plaque behind the counter with the quote, ?Go forth to meet the shadowy future, without fear, and with a manly heart,? by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, that had been saved from the heyday of the miner?s ?Theatorium? next door. ?They started clearing out a lot of the statues and stuff when that place was used to make our own special ?cough syrup? during Prohibition,? the lady at check-in said. ?They used to ship their ?cure? all the way to Chicago and San Francisco.? I wanted to ask her more in the morning but she was gone. So I walked past the neon tipi of the Red Lodge Caf�, the wine bar, antique, pottery and kitchen stores, and past a fence made of skis where I saw a truck attached to an extension cord to keep the engine warm right next to an open Subaru hatchback loaded with fishing gear and thought: ?That?s Montana right there.? Slightly more than 2,000 people live in Red Lodge. And Jeff Carroll said his destination ski traffic is heavily weighted to North Dakota and Minnesota. ?So will I see lots of snowmobile suits and Viking?s Starter Jackets on the slope?? ?Oh,? Jeff assured me. ?Those are some of our best customers.? I didn?t see any obvious Brett Favre fans, but lots of hot-rodders in camouflage came zipping by, and telemarkers, snowboarders and kids in Day-Glo. We saw them skiing off Nichols and Grizzly Peak, and down into Palisades Park where the cliffs rise up like dinosaurs. Down the tree-sided steeps of Upper Continental and True Grit, and zooming the open slope of Lazy M with Bob, a fast-skiing welder from Billings who rides Harleys and only hunts with black powder now. He led us down ?Lodge Trail,? a gullet of bumps into the base area where I wish I had stopped to pull out my camera. And he stopped and smiled up at the sunshine and said, ?I?m going to have a beer then see a man about buying a house. It?s time I made the commute from here to Billings instead of the other way around.? At the gas station, Jeff started talking to the banker who said, ?Oh, Chico Hot Springs. You guys are going to love it there.?� Links: The Carbon County Steakhouse: www.thepizzaco.com/steakhouse The Pollard Hotel: www.thepollard.com Red Lodge Mountain: www.redlodgemountain.com
In Defense of: Boston
If you're looking for glamour, bangles, embroidery or Bogner, then you've got a problem, mistah, because that's not what Boston skiing is all about. It's about denim. It's about buckling your boots in the parking lot, hitting the slopes with your pals and having, as we say around here, a blast. It's about taking some turns with the kids; avoiding the psychic damage of The Big Vacation; and spending as little money as possible, which, after all, is what we Yankees do best.
This is not to say that Boston lacks panache. Or even the ability to spend lots of money quickly. Boston's economy?rooted in the triple threat of financial planning (Fidelity is a huge employer), exotic high-tech (Route 128 is still squarely in the crosshairs of Russian missiles) and academia (there are more than 160 universities in Boston)?is booming.
But a funny thing happens on the way to the hill: As the American Express financial advisors and the Hale and Dorr lawyers glide out of the brick canyons of State Street and past the Georgian revival silhouette of Faneuil Hall, they engage in a sort of reverse masquerade-shedding their fancy daily garb and donning blue jeans, sweatshirts and whatever else will keep people from saying, "What a wuss!" And, of course, all the people in Boston who actually work for a living-the eight kajillion contractors, electricians and masons working on the Big Dig (the largest public works project in human history)-don't have to change a thing. They go as is.
Surprisingly, though, there is an old-world corporate ski culture in Boston. Head Skis USA, plus its sister companies Head Boots and Tyrolia Bindings, are based just north of Boston in Byfield, and Swix-the venerable cross-country brand-distributes its Lillehammer-made products out of Wilmington. And until recently, Salomon's distributorship was about 15 minutes outside the city.
But at its heart, Boston is a Yankee ski town. This becomes very clear when you wade into the hyperactive, hormonal sea that is the after-school rush at Nashoba Valley. Nashoba, a little mound 20 minutes outside of Boston, absorbs unbelievable numbers of riders and sliders, all of them wearing New England Patriots sweatshirts or Bruins longshoreman caps. In some cities, kids hang out on street corners after school. In Boston, they rip it up at Nashoba.
To get there, take Route 2, go past the Reformatory in Concord, past Colonial Chevrolet, and take a right. And then a quick left. Watch out for the school buses. Nashoba Valley-with its 240 feet of vertical and 59 skiable acres-serves an astonishing number of Boston-area skiers, 100,000 last season, according to Al Fletcher, whose family has owned the place since it opened in 1964. Knee-high sliders, taking their first runs, rocket around everywhere.
Of course, there are other ski areas like Nashoba sprinkled around Boston-Bradford Hill in Haverill, Blue Hills in Milton, and tiny Ski Ward in Shrewsbury, just off the Massachusetts Turnpike. Ski Ward, with 200 vertical feet and 10 skiable acres, is situated on Main Street. Want to check the conditions? Drive by.
About 20 minutes farther out Route 2 is the crown jewel of Boston skiing?Wachusett, which for years now has been run by the plentiful Crowley family. The Crowleys have taken the efficiencies of their Polar Beverages bottling company and applied them to their ski hill. With a vengeance. These guys won't quit. They love skiing, and they love their area (which is open 14 hours a day and serves as an old-guy hangout at 7 a.m. and Master's racer stomping ground at 8 p.m.). If something can be improved, they fix it: Hot chocolate gets delivered, for free, to people standing in line on cold days. You can buy tickets online. And the family won a design award by taking the excess heat thrown off by its huge snowmaking system and warming the lodge with it.
The Crowleys' big idea: Get people from Boston and Worcester and the surrounding towns out of their cars, up on the high-speed detachable quads and into their 105 skiable acres, like, wicked fast. Last year, Wachusett had more skier visits (more than 300,000) than enormous Waterville Valley in New Hampshire.
This is not to say that Boston lacks panache. Or even the ability to spend lots of money quickly. Boston's economy?rooted in the triple threat of financial planning (Fidelity is a huge employer), exotic high-tech (Route 128 is still squarely in the crosshairs of Russian missiles) and academia (there are more than 160 universities in Boston)?is booming.
But a funny thing happens on the way to the hill: As the American Express financial advisors and the Hale and Dorr lawyers glide out of the brick canyons of State Street and past the Georgian revival silhouette of Faneuil Hall, they engage in a sort of reverse masquerade-shedding their fancy daily garb and donning blue jeans, sweatshirts and whatever else will keep people from saying, "What a wuss!" And, of course, all the people in Boston who actually work for a living-the eight kajillion contractors, electricians and masons working on the Big Dig (the largest public works project in human history)-don't have to change a thing. They go as is.
Surprisingly, though, there is an old-world corporate ski culture in Boston. Head Skis USA, plus its sister companies Head Boots and Tyrolia Bindings, are based just north of Boston in Byfield, and Swix-the venerable cross-country brand-distributes its Lillehammer-made products out of Wilmington. And until recently, Salomon's distributorship was about 15 minutes outside the city.
But at its heart, Boston is a Yankee ski town. This becomes very clear when you wade into the hyperactive, hormonal sea that is the after-school rush at Nashoba Valley. Nashoba, a little mound 20 minutes outside of Boston, absorbs unbelievable numbers of riders and sliders, all of them wearing New England Patriots sweatshirts or Bruins longshoreman caps. In some cities, kids hang out on street corners after school. In Boston, they rip it up at Nashoba.
To get there, take Route 2, go past the Reformatory in Concord, past Colonial Chevrolet, and take a right. And then a quick left. Watch out for the school buses. Nashoba Valley-with its 240 feet of vertical and 59 skiable acres-serves an astonishing number of Boston-area skiers, 100,000 last season, according to Al Fletcher, whose family has owned the place since it opened in 1964. Knee-high sliders, taking their first runs, rocket around everywhere.
Of course, there are other ski areas like Nashoba sprinkled around Boston-Bradford Hill in Haverill, Blue Hills in Milton, and tiny Ski Ward in Shrewsbury, just off the Massachusetts Turnpike. Ski Ward, with 200 vertical feet and 10 skiable acres, is situated on Main Street. Want to check the conditions? Drive by.
About 20 minutes farther out Route 2 is the crown jewel of Boston skiing?Wachusett, which for years now has been run by the plentiful Crowley family. The Crowleys have taken the efficiencies of their Polar Beverages bottling company and applied them to their ski hill. With a vengeance. These guys won't quit. They love skiing, and they love their area (which is open 14 hours a day and serves as an old-guy hangout at 7 a.m. and Master's racer stomping ground at 8 p.m.). If something can be improved, they fix it: Hot chocolate gets delivered, for free, to people standing in line on cold days. You can buy tickets online. And the family won a design award by taking the excess heat thrown off by its huge snowmaking system and warming the lodge with it.
The Crowleys' big idea: Get people from Boston and Worcester and the surrounding towns out of their cars, up on the high-speed detachable quads and into their 105 skiable acres, like, wicked fast. Last year, Wachusett had more skier visits (more than 300,000) than enormous Waterville Valley in New Hampshire.
Kona Village Resort
Stay & Play includes up to $2,000 in activities at Kona Village. Rates include a private thatched roof bungalow, breakfast, lunch and dinner daily for 2 people, select ocean activities and for February and March that includes a whale watching expedition, unlimited tennis and complimentary parking.
Terms & Conditions: Based on availability, does not include tax and gratuity and ocean activities are subject to weather conditions.
Terms & Conditions: Based on availability, does not include tax and gratuity and ocean activities are subject to weather conditions.
Skiinfo: Return of the Big Snowfalls
..... Global Snow (Ski Press)-Skiinfo.co.uk reports that there has been fresh snow across much of Europe and North America in the past few days with many resorts in the Alps and the Pyrenees reporting at least 30cm (a foot) of new snow.The snowfall is continuing today with more fresh snow across both continents. Italy has seen some of the most snow in the past few days, especially in the north of the country. Two thirds of powder alarms issued today for snowfall of more than 20m in 24 hours have been issued for the country, with Limone reporting 60cm (two feet). Temperatures have dropped dramatically from up to 20 degrees last week to sub-zero temperatures by the weekend and more snow is forecast for the rest of the week. Arabba Marmolada has the deepest snow with a five metre (nearly 17 feet) of snow with the Pragelato glacier having 430cm (14.3 feet) and Courmayeur 330cm (11 feet) of snow. Germany had a snowy weekend with more than 30 powder alarms. Most of them were issued in the central and southern uplands (Sauerland, Harz and Black Forest). Gaby Baur of the Black Forest Tourism Board told the regional broadcasting corporation (SWR), ?The current winter season is one of the best we ever had.? The Allg�u saw some remarkable snowfalls, too. On Sunday Grasgehren there even reported the weekend?s biggest snowfall in Germany with 50cm (20 inches) of fresh powder within 24 hours. The Zugspitze had 20cm the same day. Oberstdorf had already reported 30cm (a foot) of powder on Saturday. Today (Wednesday) Austrian ski resorts like Gro�glockner, Katschberg and Ankogel reported another 10-15cm (4-6 inches) of new snow. S�lden got 9cm. The M�lltal glacier issued a powder alarm because of 20cm (eight inches) of fresh powder. Ski resorts in Switzerland were also busy issuing powder alarms on Sunday. Andermatt-Gotthard did so because of 20cm of freshly fallen snow. Peter Heinzer, director of Andermatt Gotthard Sportbahnen, told Skiinfo, ?It?s hardly possible to describe the snow conditions here without using many superlatives,? and so he described the ?finest powder snow? and ?unique skiing conditions.? France turned very cold on Sunday and the south of the country received some significant snowfalls, especially for March.� For example, in the Gard department (Southern France),�40cm of powder in the valleys, which at this time of year and in such volume has not happened since 1974. The Winter X Games Europe kick off in Tignes today for the very first time. Tignes was chosen to host this key event in freestyle ski and snowboard until March 12th.� Chamonix still has the deepest snow in the country with 407cm (13.5 feet), La Grave la Meije has 330cm (11 feet) and La Rosi�re 1850 290cm (nearly 10 feet). There have been big snowfalls in Pyrenees, and the nearby city of Barcelona ground to a standstill due to the weekend snowstorm.� Sierra Nevada continues to have the greatest snow depth in Europe with five metres on their upper slopes. This week this most southern resort in Europe will host the European Freestyle Championship gathering the best freestyle riders (ski and snowboard) in the disciplines of moguls and skicross. The Pyrenees are still looking very nice with more than 2mof snow on the top of the slopes with Boi Taull having the most with three metres.� Formigal has the most terrain open in the region with 240cm (eight feet) on upper slopes and 136km of trails open.� In Canada Banff-Lake Louise has just been named Top North American Spot for Spring Skiing by The New York Times (February 28, 2010) and received another dump of 25cm (10 inches) of fresh powder overnight.
Friday, February 4, 2011
Do cheap last-minute holidays still exist?
A reader recalls memories of Teletext holidays and wonders if the equivalent still existsEvery week a Guardian Money reader submits a question, and it's up to you to help him or her out ? a selection of the best answers will appear in next Saturday's paper.This week's question:Years ago I remember my family used to book exciting last-minute holidays using Teletext. Do travel agents still discount crazily the day before you're due to fly, or is booking early the way to go? Anyone still doing this; if so, how? Where are the cheapest holidays?What are your thoughts?Consumer affairsCheap flightsJim Griffinguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2011 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds
Filmmaker Joshua Morin on Beauty, Observation, and Memory
This Canadian computer software developer reveals his artistic process for the compelling travel videos he cranks.
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